Solo in Italy: From Venetian Canals to Sicilian Shores

 

Venice — There Is No City Quite Like It

For me, there is no city quite like Venice. It is one of those places that you have seen so many times in photos that it almost doesn't seem real. When you walk along the canals and through the narrow alleys, it feels like you should be sharing it with someone special. But it is so beautiful that you quickly come to terms with seeing it solo—and simply appreciate the good fortune of being there!

As COVID was becoming less of a threat in 2022, I was antsy to get moving again. I knew I wanted to go to Venice, travel around Sicily, and also see Northern Italy, specifically Milan and the Italian Lakes. Italy is, by far, one of my favorite destinations for its culture and food.

I gave myself two weeks of travel time, which meant careful planning on how I would get from place to place, whether by train or on a couple of flights within Italy. When you travel solo, you need to be pretty meticulous about schedules and connections. At the same time, I knew I had to be flexible if everything didn't go exactly according to plan.

So, I got to work on the planning—and I was excited, but a bit nervous, to be traveling again.

Morocco: Medinas, Mountains and a Little Bit of Mayhem

 

Morocco is one of those exotic, dreamy places that I had thought about going to for a while. 

In 2023, I finally had the chance to experience this fascinating country, but the timing of the trip coincided with the aftermath of a major earthquake in the Atlas Mountains and the events of October 7. I worried that I would appear uncaring for those affected by the quake and that the protests might escalate.

I chose to travel with a tour group, mostly trusted their guidance, but came to the conclusion on my own not to cancel. I probably would have wanted to kick myself if I had.  The country's economy is very dependent on tourism and felt this would be a lost opportunity. 

When it comes to seeing Morocco, joining an escorted tour is the way to go. It is a great way to see the country without having to worry about navigating the maze-like medinas or arranging transportation between cities — things which I would find particularly challenging as a solo woman traveler.

As it goes, the trip was not without drama. On the connecting flight from Paris to Casablanca, the pilot informed us that some men "were being returned to Morocco". They were young men in their 20s, seated in the rear of the plane, with twist ties on their wrists. Really? On a commercial flight? Happy to report no incidents.

Our journey took us from Rabat to Fez, then south toward Erfoud and the edge of the Sahara, through the dramatic landscapes around Ouarzazate, on to the Atlantic coast at Essaouira, and finally to the bustle of Marrakesh and Casablanca.

Morocco has beautiful architecture, brilliant colors, different smells and sounds, and sweeping desert landscapes. Every stop revealed a completely different side of the country.

That's exactly what made Morocco so memorable.

Traveling Through Vietnam - From Hanoi and Halong Bay to the Mekong Delta

  

Vietnam is a long, narrow country stretching more than 1,000 miles from north to south, with dramatically different landscapes from one region to the next. The mountainous north is home to Hanoi and spectacular Halong Bay, while southern Vietnam includes bustling Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta.

The 20th century was a tumultuous period for Vietnam, particularly the war that dominated the country for decades. Major U.S. military involvement occurred primarily from the mid-1960s until the early 1970s, and the war ended in 1975. 

Vietnam today is a very different country from the one many Americans remember from the war era. It is developing rapidly, with expanding infrastructure, modern technology and a population increasingly connected to the rest of the world.

Most people's connection with Vietnam, is the disastrous Vietnam War or the "American War", as the Vietnamese call it. The anti-war protest movement shook America in the '60s and '70s. But I learned life goes on and things can change dramatically in a positive direction, given time.

Still, many American veterans and their families understandably have strong feelings and painful memories associated with the war and cannot imagine returning. Others have returned, perhaps out of curiosity or a desire to see the country as it is today.

Modern Vietnam attracts travelers with its fascinating history, beautiful landscapes, energetic cities and wonderful cuisine. Its relatively affordable cost of living has also attracted expatriates, retirees and digital nomads.

 

My journey also took me to neighboring Cambodia, where I visited Siem Reap and the extraordinary temples of Angkor Wat.

Discovering Cambodia - Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh and a Difficult History

In 2024, I traveled to Cambodia and Vietnam, a journey that became one of my all-time favorite and most interesting adventures.

I had previously visited Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, so I thought I was well equipped to handle the very long haul from New York City—and fortunately, I was.

Cambodia was my first stop. I began in Phnom Penh, the country's capital, for a short but very illuminating stay. Cambodia's recent history is extraordinarily difficult, and visiting Phnom Penh gave me a much deeper understanding of what the Cambodian people endured under the Khmer Rouge.

From Phnom Penh, I traveled to Siem Reap to see the magnificent temples of Angkor, including Angkor Wat. Seeing these ancient temples in person was one of the experiences I had most looked forward to on the trip, and they did not disappoint.

After Cambodia, I continued on to Vietnam, traveling through the country from Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta to Hoi An, Hue, Halong Bay and Hanoi.

South Africa - Beyond Safaris and Cape Town

My journey through South Africa took me to a country where vibrant cities, dramatic landscapes, wildlife and history all share the spotlight. I really didn't know what to expect, and South Africa surprised me. One of the things I enjoyed most was the variety. You can spend the morning exploring a city neighborhood and the afternoon watching the sunset over a nature reserve, mountain range or coastline.

Cape Town is often called one of the world's most beautiful cities, and I completely understand why. Stunning beaches, mountains and panoramic views are all within a short distance of the city center. It is a remarkable introduction to South Africa and a destination that offers much more than the traditional safari experience.

 

        Biking enthusiasts in Cape Town                        

South Africa After Apartheid

Apartheid officially ended in the early 1990s, and South Africa held its first fully democratic election in 1994, when Nelson Mandela became president. More than three decades later, the legacy of apartheid remains visible, particularly in patterns of wealth, housing and economic opportunity.

The contrast between rich and poor was striking to me, especially in Johannesburg. At the same time, I heard about efforts to create more economically integrated residential communities. South Africa has made enormous changes since the apartheid era, but significant inequalities remain.

Split, Croatia: Exploring the Dalmatian Coast

Exploring Split

Split is the perfect starting point for exploring Croatia's Dalmatian Coast, with its ancient palace, waterfront promenade, and easy access to historic towns, islands and national parks.

Croatia, once a republic of communist Yugoslavia, has emerged as a popular tourist destination since transitioning to a democratic society in the 1990s.

The country borders the beautiful Adriatic Sea, across from Italy's east coast. Much of Croatia's allure lies in the quaint, picturesque towns and islands along its rugged coastline, many of which have retained their historic character despite the country's growing popularity.

Split, Croatia is an ideal base for exploring the Dalmatian Coast. Life here is slow and relaxed. Tourism plays a major role in the local economy and English is widely spoken.

I stayed at the modern, clean Hotel Amphora, about a ten minute ride to town. It is a large hotel which serves many tour groups and sits across from the lovely Znjan beach.The beachfront promenade is popular with runners, cyclists, dog walkers and families and is active throughout the day and evening. There are also plenty of restaurants and bars along the beach. 

What I Learned While Traveling Solo

Sometimes I travel with a group because of logistics. 

This is not my favorite travel option due to its limitations, but admittedly, I would not otherwise get exposure to places like Siem Reap, Cambodia or Halong Bay, Vietnam, if I were to do it on my own. 

What mostly makes traveling in a group interesting, is spending extended time with complete strangers.  

By day 3, it is given, that with very little prompting, you learn a significant amount of interesting facts about your new friends’ lives.  

While traveling with a group I’ve met…

… a woman who decided her husband should stay home in order to teach him a lesson in being independent and making his own decisions. I've often wondered if that strategy was successful.

… widows, who after painful life experiences acknowledged life's unpredictability and purchased plane tickets thereafter. I met a woman, whose husband shockingly was murdered in a park, who opened up to the world, instead of shutting down.

… a woman who confessed that she still shares her house with her ex for economic survival. No judgement there.

... a fearless couple who met jumping out of airplanes. They helped me with crossing the streets in Hanoi to protect me from waves of motorbikes.

… a closely knit family with 3 adult unmarried children, enjoying each others’ company, giddily sharing their adventures. Each had a specialty, like navigation, or history, to share with the others.

... a woman born with a spinal defect, whose family was advised by medical professionals to be institutionalized, only to obtain a doctorate and counsel people with traumatic brain injury.

… a mother cut-off by her successful, ostentatious son because he was embarrassed by her cultural traditions.

… another mother treated like royalty by her successful son who appreciated all she did for him.

Each trip is a discovery of new places but also a discovery into the depths of people’s lives. This is why travel can be so intriguing.

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Turkey: Ancient Wonders and Modern Life - Discovering Istanbul, Troy and the Aegan Coast

ARRIVING IN TURKEY

So many people had recommended visiting Turkey on my previous travels that I needed to see it for myself. I was already staying in Heraklion, Crete, and Istanbul was only a relatively short flight away. Logistically, it made sense to add Turkey as another leg of the trip. The airfare was reasonable, so I booked my flight.

The taxi driver who took me to the Heraklion airport squeezed two other women—and a lot of luggage—into the car. My main concern was not missing my flight, so I just went along with the arrangement. The driver admitted that if the airport police spotted us, he was sure to be fined. We kept our heads down as we approached the terminal. He didn't get caught, and we all made our flights!

Turkey is a very large country, and for much of my trip I traveled from place to place on a tour bus. I realize not everyone enjoys spending several hours a day on a bus, but I actually like it. You get to relax and watch the countryside go by.

I had never done back-to-back trips like this before and wondered how I would handle a busy three-week itinerary. After some initial doubt, I quickly fell into the tourist routine and was very happy with my decision. Those three weeks were packed with history and culture, which kept me completely engaged.

MY FIRST DAYS IN ISTANBUL

Arriving at Istanbul Airport was easy. The airport is enormous, modern and impressive, although it is quite a distance from central Istanbul.

Outside the terminal, I searched for the rideshare meeting area but found the scene chaotic, so I decided to take a taxi instead. I negotiated a flat rate before leaving.

I think the driver was unaccustomed to dealing with a solo woman traveler. He asked if it was okay for him to smoke—at least he asked. I said no. He then offered some kind of potion to cover up the smell. He eventually gave up and was not pleased.

I had two days on my own before joining my tour group. I stayed at the Millennium Istanbul Golden Horn, a boutique-style hotel with a definite chill Istanbul vibe. It was conveniently located near a tram stop, making it relatively easy to reach the major sights. Once I figured out how to buy and use the Istanbulkart, I was on my way.

BASILICA CISTERN IN ISTANBUL

Early the next morning, I headed to the Basilica Cistern , which turned out to be a good decision because a long line formed later.

Built during the Byzantine era in the 6th century, this enormous underground cistern was constructed to store and supply water to parts of Constantinople.

Getting there by tram was a little tricky for me. I had to make a connection and then walk to another stop, and I didn't find the directions particularly obvious. I eventually asked someone to point me in the right direction. Part of the adventure of traveling solo is figuring these things out as you go!

Inside, hundreds of columns rise from the water beneath vaulted ceilings, illuminated by dramatic lighting. Elevated walkways make it easy to explore the enormous underground space.

Personally, about 30 minutes was enough time for me. I thought the admission price was rather high, but the Basilica Cistern is one of Istanbul's major attractions, so I sucked it up as a vulnerable tourist.

Halloween came early this year.

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Then, I took a quick walk to the main square for a peek at Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These sites are on the group itinerary so there was no need to jump on line.

 

Turkey is a secular republic with a predominantly Muslim population. The modern Republic of Turkey was founded in 1923 following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, which had ruled for centuries.

Under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the new republic introduced sweeping political and social reforms aimed at creating a modern, secular state. Turkey remains constitutionally secular, although the role of religion in public and political life continues to be an important part of the country's ongoing debate.

Economically, Turkey has faced significant challenges in recent years, particularly high inflation. As a visitor, I sensed some of those economic pressures during my trip.

Istanbul's Egyptian Spice Bazaar

Then it was off to Istanbul's Egyptian Spice Bazaar, a feast for the senses with its colorful displays and wonderful aromas.

The market was packed with tourists when I visited. For me, about an hour was enough time unless you have a serious shopping spree in mind. I went mainly for the experience, and it was definitely worth seeing.

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Galata Tower and the Galata Neighborhood

The next day, I decided to visit Galata Tower , which wasn't included on my tour itinerary. The Galata neighborhood is known for its historic streets, shops, cafés and restaurants, so I figured I might as well explore it on my own.

There is even a romantic legend that a couple who climbs Galata Tower together for the first time will eventually marry. I wasn't going to be testing that theory on this solo trip!

I got an early start and jumped on the tram during rush hour, then crossed the Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn on foot. The fishermen were already lining the bridge, although I didn't see any catches yet.

Getting to the tower was easy enough, except that my GPS guided me up a steep cobblestone hill. Good thing it wasn't raining.

The tower itself was about what I expected. I decided the admission price to go to the top was more than I wanted to spend, so I declined. I wandered around for a while and then made my way back down the hill, retracing my steps.

    

Galataport

Nearby Galataport stretches along the Bosphorus waterfront and includes Istanbul's cruise terminal along with numerous restaurants, cafés and shops. It's worth checking out if you're already exploring the Galata area.

TIP: Smoking is very common in Istanbul, and I frequently encountered cigarette smoke, particularly around outdoor cafés and restaurants. If you're sensitive to smoke or have respiratory issues, this is something to be aware of when planning your visit.

MY FIRST TURKISH HAMAM EXPERIENCE

If you visit Turkey, you may want to experience a traditional Turkish hamam, or Turkish bath. I wasn't completely convinced that I wanted to do it, but I'm glad I gave it a try.

If you're very modest, a traditional hamam may take you a little outside your comfort zone. Depending on the hamam and the type of service you choose, there may be varying levels of privacy, so it's worth knowing what to expect beforehand.

My experience began with a vigorous full-body scrub that exfoliated the skin and left it incredibly soft. This was followed by a wonderful foam wash and massage. The whole experience was relaxing and refreshing.

I went to a local spa just a few minutes from my hotel where nobody spoke English, and I wasn't always quite sure what the hand gestures meant! I seemed to be something of a curiosity, but everyone was very nice.

I'm glad I tried a hamam while I was in Turkey. It was one of those experiences that took me a little outside my comfort zone—which is part of the fun of traveling somewhere new.

HAGIA SOPHIA

The following morning, I visited one of Istanbul's most famous and impressive landmarks, the magnificent Hagia Sophia. Its enormous scale and extraordinary history make it one of the city's must-see sights.

The present Hagia Sophia was completed in 537 during the Byzantine era and originally served as a Christian cathedral. Following the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, it was converted into a mosque. It became a museum in 1935 and was reconverted into a mosque in 2020.

What amazed me most was seeing the surviving Byzantine mosaics after so many centuries. Standing inside a building that has witnessed nearly 1,500 years of history really does feel like stepping back in time.

THE BLUE MOSQUE

Directly across from Hagia Sophia is another of Istanbul's great landmarks, the Blue Mosque, officially known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque.

Built in the early 17th century during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I, the mosque is famous for its cascading domes, six minarets and beautiful interior decorated with thousands of İznik tiles, many in shades of blue.

The Blue Mosque remains an active place of worship, so visitors should be respectful of prayer times and dress requirements. Shoes must be removed before entering, and women are generally required to cover their hair. Appropriate coverings may be available for visitors who need them.

Seeing Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque facing one another is one of the most memorable sights in Istanbul.

 

THE GRAND BAZAAR

The Grand Bazaar is a shopper's paradise and can be completely overwhelming to navigate. With seemingly endless lanes of shops, it's easy to lose track of both time and direction.

Bargaining is part of the shopping experience, although I found there seemed to be less flexibility when it came to jewelry. You could spend hours wandering through the bazaar and still see only a fraction of it. Every so often, you need to come up for air so you don't get dizzy from all the choices!

The local goods are awesome—tea sets, rugs, pottery, scarves, lamps and so much more. Even if you're not planning to buy anything, wandering through the Grand Bazaar is an experience in itself.

The streets surrounding the bazaar are also filled with shops, and I found some good deals there as well. If you still have the energy after tackling the Grand Bazaar, they're worth exploring.

TROY (Troia) WHERE LEGEND MEET HISTORY

Near Çanakkale, you can visit the archaeological site of Troy and walk among the remains of this legendary ancient city.

Most of us are familiar with the story of the Trojan Horse—the legendary wooden horse used by the Greeks to secretly enter the fortified city of Troy. Greek soldiers supposedly hid inside the horse, which was left behind as an apparent gift.

Although the Trojan War is most famously associated with Homer's Iliad, the Iliad does not actually tell the story of the Trojan Horse. The horse appears in other ancient accounts, including Homer's Odyssey.

For centuries, Troy was regarded by many as a place of legend. In the 1870s, German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann excavated at Hisarlık in present-day Turkey, where archaeologists identified the remains of multiple ancient settlements built one on top of another. The site is now widely accepted as the location of ancient Troy.

Of course, the original Trojan Horse is nowhere to be found!

A facsimile of the wooden "Trojan Horse" from 2004 Brad Pitt movie in downtown Canakkale.

PERGAMON: AN ANCIENT CENTER OF LEARNING

Call me weird, but I love ancient ruins. I love walking where people walked thousands of years ago and feeling a connection to the civilizations that came before us.

Pergamon, near the modern city of Bergama and north of Izmir, was one of the most important cities of the ancient Hellenistic world. It became the capital of a powerful kingdom and a major center of culture, medicine and learning.

The ancient ruins include the Asclepion, a healing center dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine. People came here seeking treatment using methods that included bathing, exercise and other therapies—something like an ancient medical and wellness center.

Pergamon was also famous for its impressive library and monumental architecture. Walking through the ruins gives you another glimpse into just how sophisticated these ancient civilizations were.

Separately, street dogs and cats are cared for by the locals on a regular basis in Turkey.  Several people carried dog and cat food with them to feed these very tame animals. You can find them at all the historical sites.

Local village women invited us for a home cooked lunch . They showed us around their homes, were all very hospitable and the food was tasty. The real thing.

IZMIR, TURKEY - ATM MISHAP

Well, it was bound to happen at some point. 

I was running low on local currency, so decided one evening in Izmir to go to the bank ATM around the corner. A message flashed on the screen with a random warning and then the machine swallowed my card! I've heard of this happening in Turkey unfortunately.  I immediately thought that I was prey to a scammer. My anxiety jumped up a notch about my cash provisions. It was a restless night.

I called Yazmen, our tour manager, and she said she would call the bank the next day. I politely waited until the next afternoon when she took a break from her tour guide duties.

After we returned from Ephesus, we walked over to the bank just before closing. She explained what had happened in Turkish to the bank official, I signed some documents, presented my passport, and they fetched my card. I was feeling really thankful to Yazmen for her help.

I now carry a backup ATM card when I travel for peace of mind. 

Word of caution: use the bank ATM during the day when the bank is open, just in case. 😌

EPHESUS: ONE OF THE GREAT CITIES OF THE ANCIENT WORLD

Ephesus was one of the great cities of the ancient Mediterranean world. Although its history stretches back much further, the city flourished particularly during the Roman period, when it became an important commercial and cultural center and one of the major cities of Roman Asia.

One of its most spectacular surviving monuments is the Library of Celsus, built in the 2nd century AD. Its magnificent reconstructed façade is one of the most recognizable sights at Ephesus. The library is believed to have once held thousands of scrolls.

Nearby stood the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Very little of the original temple survives today, but its history gives you some idea of just how important Ephesus once was.

 Statue of Artemis

The Temple of Artemis was one of the seven wonders of the world but only one column still exists.

Walking through Ephesus, you follow ancient marble-paved streets once lined with fountains, temples and public buildings. The site also contains remarkable terrace houses, where wealthy residents lived in homes decorated with mosaics and frescoes.

What impressed me most was the sheer size of the city. It's difficult to appreciate how enormous and sophisticated Ephesus was until you're actually walking through it.

TIP: Ephesus can become extremely crowded, particularly when cruise ships are in port at nearby Kuşadası. If you have flexibility, try to visit early in the day or at a time when fewer large tour groups are arriving.

CHRISTIAN SITES NEAR EPHESUS

Ephesus is also near several important sites associated with early Christianity. 

The House of the Virgin Mary, located on a hillside near Ephesus, is traditionally believed to be the place where Mary spent the final years of her life. Today, it is a pilgrimage site visited by both Christians and Muslims.

Nearby are the ruins of the Basilica of St. John, built during the Byzantine era on a site traditionally believed to be the burial place of John the Apostle.

Whether or not you accept these traditions, visiting these sites adds another fascinating layer to the long and complicated history of the Ephesus region.

We stayed in Izmir, the 3rd largest city in Turkey and about an hour's drive from Ephesus.

Turkish Coffee-thick but good

PAMUKKALE AND THE ANCIENT CITY OF HEIROPOLIS

Pamukkale, meaning “Cotton Castle” in Turkish, is one of Turkey's most unusual natural wonders. Its brilliant white terraces were formed over thousands of years as calcium-rich thermal waters flowed down the hillside, leaving behind deposits of white travertine.

Pamukkale is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with the ruins of the ancient Greco-Roman city of Hierapolis, which developed around the area's thermal springs. The waters were valued for their supposed therapeutic properties in ancient times, just as visitors are drawn to them today.

We stopped at Pamukkale on our way to Antalya, and the dazzling white terraces against the surrounding landscape were quite a sight.

ANTALYA AND THE HISTORIC OLD TOWN OF KALEICI

Antalya is a beautiful resort city on Turkey's Mediterranean coast, popular with both international and Turkish visitors. With its beaches, restaurants, nightlife and dramatic setting between the Mediterranean and the mountains, it has a very different feel from the ancient sites we had been visiting.

One of the highlights is Kaleiçi, Antalya's historic old town. Its narrow, winding streets are filled with traditional buildings, shops, restaurants and cafés.

One of its best-known landmarks is Hadrian's Gate, a Roman triumphal arch built to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century.

As you wander through Kaleiçi, there are lovely views of the Mediterranean, the harbor and the surrounding mountains. It's an easy area to explore on foot and a nice place to simply sit for awhile.

CARAVANSERAI OF SULTANHAN: A STOP ON THE ANCIENT TRADE ROUTE

On our way to Cappadocia, we stopped at the Sultanhanı Caravanserai, an impressive 13th-century roadside inn in central Anatolia.

Caravanserais were built along important trade routes to provide merchants and other travelers—and their animals—with a safe place to rest during long journeys. Sultanhanı is one of the largest and best-preserved examples from the Seljuk period in Turkey.

Its massive stone walls and imposing entrance provided protection for travelers and their valuable goods. Walking through it gives you a sense of what traveling across Anatolia must have been like centuries ago.

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CAPPADOCIA: FAIRY CHIMNEYS AND CAVE CHURCHES

Cappadocia has one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Turkey. Millions of years of volcanic activity followed by wind and water erosion created the unusual rock formations and fairy chimneys for which the region is famous.

Over the centuries, people carved homes, churches and entire communities into the soft volcanic rock, creating the cave dwellings that are still visible throughout the region.

One of Cappadocia's highlights is the Göreme Open-Air Museum, a remarkable complex of rock-cut churches and monasteries, many containing beautifully preserved Byzantine frescoes.

The wider Göreme area is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for both its spectacular natural landscape and its extraordinary cultural history.

Cappadocia really does look otherworldly. It's one of those places where the landscape seems almost too strange to be real.

    

Hot-Air Ballooning in Cappadocia

Cappadocia is famous worldwide for its hot-air balloon rides, which offer spectacular aerial views of the fairy chimneys, valleys and unusual rock formations.

Balloon flights are highly dependent on weather conditions, particularly wind, and flights can be canceled when conditions aren't considered safe.

Unfortunately, the wind did not cooperate during my visit, and our balloon ride was canceled. 😞 I was hugely disappointed. Seeing Cappadocia from a hot-air balloon had been one of the experiences I was most looking forward to.

But that's travel. Sometimes even the things you've planned and anticipated don't happen. You learn to roll with the punches, enjoy what you can experience—and move on to the next adventure.

OZKONAK UNDERGROUND CITY IN CAPPADOCIA

Özkonak Underground City, in Turkey's Cappadocia region, is an extraordinary network of underground rooms and tunnels carved into the volcanic rock. It was rediscovered by a local farmer in the early 1970s.

The underground complex provided a protected space where people could shelter during periods of danger. It included living quarters, kitchens, food-storage areas and spaces for animals, along with narrow passageways connecting the different levels.

One particularly interesting feature is a system of small holes associated with the tunnels. They may have been used for communication or defense against intruders.

It's remarkable to imagine families living beneath the ground, with spaces for their food, animals and everyday needs, while seeking protection from threats above.

PASABAG VADISI: CAPPADOCIA'S FAIRY CHIMNEYS

Nearby Paşabağ Valley, also known as Monks Valley, has some of Cappadocia's most striking rock formations. The valley is particularly famous for its fairy chimneys—tall formations of softer volcanic rock topped by harder stone caps that have resisted erosion.

Some of the formations have distinctive mushroom-like shapes, making this one of the most unusual landscapes in Cappadocia.

There are walking paths throughout the valley, allowing you to get close to the fairy chimneys and explore the remarkable landscape on foot.

SHOPPING FOR TURKISH RUGS, CERAMICS AND HANCRAFTED GOODS

If you're traveling with a tour group in Turkey, chances are you'll be taken to a workshop or showroom where artisans produce beautiful handmade goods. Turkish rugs, ceramics and other traditional crafts can be gorgeous—and some of the finer pieces can be quite expensive.

If you do splurge on something special, it may very well become a family heirloom. Just make sure you're not training a puppy if you buy a rug—or keeping an expensive ceramic vase within reach of a toddler!

I have to admit that I have a weakness for handcrafted goods when I travel. The crafts in Turkey are wonderful, and you'll find beautiful pieces in shops throughout the country.

Find a little extra space in your luggage to bring something special home. I bought a few small ceramics and a small rug—nothing that cost a fortune—and I still enjoy looking at them. They're wonderful reminders of my trip.

REPUBLIC DAY IN ANKARA

Republic Day is celebrated throughout Turkey on October 29, commemorating the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder and first president of the republic, remains a central figure in the celebrations.

We happened to be in Ankara, Turkey's capital, during Republic Day, and the city was filled with people waving Turkish flags and celebrating. There was an incredible display of national pride, with images of Atatürk visible throughout the festivities.

Large crowds are not my thing. As the streets became more and more packed, I was already thinking about an exit strategy!

Thank you to Yazmen, our guide, for getting us through that massive crowd. I always kept my eye on her, and eventually we all made it safely back to the bus.

It was certainly a memorable way to experience one of Turkey's most important national holidays.

MUSEUM OF ANATOLIAN CIVILIZATION, ANKARA

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara takes you through thousands of years of history in Anatolia, the region that makes up most of modern-day Turkey.

The museum contains an extraordinary collection of archaeological artifacts from many different civilizations and periods. I was particularly interested in the Hittite collection, which includes artifacts from a civilization that flourished in Anatolia thousands of years ago.

TOPKAPI PALACE

Topkapı Palace was built beginning in the 15th century following Sultan Mehmed II's conquest of Constantinople. For centuries, it served as the center of the Ottoman Empire and the residence of Ottoman sultans and their court.

Today, the palace is filled with reminders of the wealth and power of the Ottoman Empire. Displays include spectacular jeweled weapons and other treasures, beautifully tiled rooms and important religious relics associated with Islamic history.

Among the sacred relics are objects traditionally associated with the Prophet Muhammad, including what is said to be his footprint.

The palace itself is fascinating, but its location is equally impressive. From the palace grounds there are spectacular views over the Bosphorus, making this one of my favorite settings among Istanbul's historic sites.

My Take on Turkey

I found Turkey to be a fascinating and beautiful country. It blends East and West, modern life and ancient history, and has an extraordinary cultural heritage. Add its unusual natural wonders, delicious cuisine and beautiful handicrafts, and there is an incredible amount to experience.

What I loved most were the historical sites. From Ephesus and Troy to Cappadocia and Istanbul, I felt surrounded by thousands of years of history—and for someone who loves ancient ruins, it doesn't get much better than that.

I found the people friendly and welcoming, and there was always something new to see, taste or learn.

Turkey is a country I would definitely recommend adding to your travel bucket list.

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