Turkey Time

I figured as long as I was in the region, it would make sense to include a trip to Turkey, since so many people have recommended it. I needed to see for myself and the flight was only ~ an hour from Heraklion.

Istanbul airport is huge, beautiful and modern. It left a good impression. The airport is far from the city center and taxi drivers hustle for passengers when you leave the terminal. I knew it should cost about $40 to get to my hotel, the taxi was metered, so I got in. I think the driver (and his friend doing translation) were not accustomed to dealing with a solo woman traveler. My driver asked me if it was okay for him to smoke and I said no. He offered me some kind of potion to cover up the smell (as a compromise) but the answer was still a big no. Then he gave up. He was not pleased.

I have 2 days on my own before I join the tour group.

I went to the Basilica Cistern early this morning which was a good plan because of the long line that followed. This is an underground structure built around 500 AD that supplied water to the Byzantine empire. It was a little tricky figuring out how to get there by tram. You need to walk about 7 minutes outside the tram stop to the second tram connection which was confusing. Of course, there were no discernible signs nearby and I had to ask someone to point me in the right direction.

There are over 300 columns and vaulted ceilings lit with eerie lighting and grated walkways above the water which makes it easy to get around. Personally, 30 minutes there was enough time for me. The admission price seemed high, but this site is a big draw, so I sucked it up as a vulnerable tourist.

Then, I took a quick walk to the main square for a peek at Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These sites are on the group itinerary so there was no need to jump on line.

Then it was off to the Egyptian spice market, a feast to the senses with all of the colors and smells.

This place was packed with tourists. An hour is enough time to spend there unless you have a shopping spree in mind. I went mainly for the experience.

Tomorrow, I was thinking of going to the Galata Tower which is on the Asian side of the Bosporus river. It's supposed to be an artsy district and it is not on the tour itinerary so I might as well go.

CLIMB TO GALATA TOWER

I got an early start and jumped on the tram for 5 stops during rush hour and crossed the bridge by foot to the other side of the Bosphorus River. The fishermen were out but I didn't see any catches yet.

Getting to the tower was easy except that my GPS guided me to a hill covered with cobblestone. Good thing it wasn't raining.

The tower itself was as expected. The ticket to the top is $40! No thank you. I wandered for a few moments then made my way down retracing my steps.

The nearby Galatsport area is off of the Bosporus river with a cruise terminal and many restaurants by the water. Worth checking out on your visit to this area.

Just a note about Istanbul - the men are heavy smokers and the smell of smoke is practically everywhere. If you have respiratory issues, I would not recommend coming here.

Just saying.

MY FIRST HAMAM

Going to a Hamam is a very Turkish thing. This is a cleansing ritual specific to Turkey and possibly a few other cultures. I wasn't convinced about doing it, but glad I did. If you are modest, you probably wouldn't enjoy being in same room as other naked women (men if you are a man obviously). But it is something worth experiencing.

First, you get a full body scrub, which feels intense, but exfoliates dead skin and leaves your skin so soft, This is followed by a foam wash with massage, then a cleansing. It is very relaxing and refreshing.

I went to a spa a few minutes from my hotel where nobody spoke English and I wasn't always sure about the hand gestures. I don't think they have had anyone from the US because of the stares but they were very nice and I'll send them more people if anyone is interested.

HAGIA SOPHIA

The Hagia Sophia was originally constructed as a church during the Byzantine era ~500AD; converted to a mosque during the Ottoman conquest in 1453; converted into a museum in 1935: finally reconverted into a mosque in 2020.

It is huge and Istanbul's most iconic landmark.

THE BLUE MOSQUE

The Blue Mosque or the Sultan Ahmed mosque is known for its stunning interior of 20,000 handmade blue tiles, magnificent domes, six minarets, and sits right opposite the Hagia Sophia. It was built around 1600 under the rule of Sultan Ahmed.

Be sure to remove your shoes before you enter. The site is actively used for prayer several times a day.

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar, a shopper's paradise, covers miles of stores and is overwhelming to navigate. While it is customary to negotiate, jewelry seemed to be an exception. You can spend days going through the complex and should come up for air so you don't get dizzy with all the choices. The local goods are awesome ... tea sets, rugs, pottery, scarves, lamps, and so much more.