Solo in Italy: From Venetian Canals to Sicilian Shores

 

Venice — There Is No City Quite Like It

For me, there is no city quite like Venice. It is one of those places that you have seen so many times in photos that it almost doesn't seem real. When you walk along the canals and through the narrow alleys, it feels like you should be sharing it with someone special. But it is so beautiful that you quickly come to terms with seeing it solo—and simply appreciate the good fortune of being there!

As COVID was becoming less of a threat in 2022, I was antsy to get moving again. I knew I wanted to go to Venice, travel around Sicily, and also see Northern Italy, specifically Milan and the Lake District. Italy is, by far, one of my favorite destinations for its culture and food.

I gave myself two weeks of travel time, which meant careful planning on how I would get from place to place, whether by train or on a couple of flights within Italy. When you travel solo, you need to be pretty meticulous about schedules and connections. At the same time, I knew I had to be flexible if everything didn't go exactly according to plan.

So, I got to work on the planning—and I was excited, but a bit nervous, to be traveling again.

Marco Polo Airport to the City of Venice 

Getting to Venice from Marco Polo Airport was easy. The quickest, but more costly way was to arrive by "water bus", but I chose to take a regular bus for the relatively short ride. 

The bus dropped me at Piazzale Roma, Venice's main bus and transportation hub. From there, I used Google Maps to find Hotel Tiziano crossing a number of bridges and canals with my roller bag along the way. It was quite a workout! Hotel Tiziano is housed in a 15th-century residence in the charming and quieter Dorsoduro neighborhood, a relatively short walk from Piazzale Roma and fairly close to St. Mark's Square.

    

Venice is a city without ordinary streets and cars in its historic center. Instead, you get around on foot or by Venice's public water bus, the vaporetto. The vaporetto is practical and also one of the best ways to see the city from the canals. Riding along the Grand Canal, past centuries-old palaces, is magical.

After I settled into my lovely Venetian decorated room, I set out to find St. Mark's Square.  Hotels in Venice can be pricey. You can stay further away, paying much less for a room, and take a bus to the city, but I recommend staying in Venice so you can soak up the whole experience, if only there for a few days. It was well worth it and a smart decision.

Some of my favorite moments in Venice were simply wandering. You find narrow passageways, tiny bridges, quiet canals, neighborhood squares and cafés away from the crowds. Getting a little lost is inevitable and fun.

St. Mark's Square is the epicenter of Venice, surrounded by some of the city's most famous landmarks, like St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace. Not far away, the Rialto Bridge crosses the Grand Canal. It's one of those classic views that you've probably seen many times.

  

In St. Mark's Square is the iconic landmark, Doge's Palace or Palazzo Ducale. It is gorgeous and a must-see from every possible angle.  

 Located beside St. Mark’s Basilica, this magnificent Gothic palace was once the residence of the Doge and the center of Venetian government. Its lavish rooms, grand staircases, and famous Bridge of Sighs offer a glimpse into the wealth and power of the Venetian Republic.

   

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The gondolas may be touristy, but watching them glide through the canals is quintessential Venice. They're part of the scenery and atmosphere that make the city so special.

For someone traveling solo, Venice is a wonderful city to explore on foot. There is no need to have a rigid itinerary. Pick a direction, cross a bridge, turn down an interesting alley and see where you end up. 

   

  

Sicily: Catania in the Shadow of Mount Etna

After finishing exploring Venice, it was time to make my way to Sicily. 

My first stop was Catania, located on the eastern part of this very large island by the Ionian Sea. The city has a distinctive Baroque character and grittiness from its proximity to Mount Etna, Europe’s most active volcano. 

Eventually, I managed to find the ground transportation, Alibus, at Catania airport, to take me within blocks of my accommodation. I was proud of myself for not getting lost or too frazzled.  My mantra, stay calm. 

Public transportation is a cost-effective way to get around. Today, I usually opt for ride shares. There's much less angst. If ever confused about how to get from point A to point B, the website Rome to Rio is really helpful with travel options and is an essential travel tool when solo.

Catania was built and rebuilt from dark volcanic stone after centuries of eruptions and earthquakes. Its markets, piazzas, historic churches, and street life are authentically Sicilian.

The Mafia or Cosa Nostra has had a long presence in this city. There are a few interesting tourist spots attesting to its history. Sicily has developed a strong anti-Mafia movement, working decades to challenge organized crime and reduce its influence. 

 

I stayed at B&B Sciara Larmisi . The B&B was housed in a beautiful old building, located by a park, Piazza Cutelli, and a ten-minute walk to the historic center of town. My room overlooked a busy mosque.

Looming over Catania is Mount Etna. The volcano erupts from time to time, but fortunately the day I went, it was quiet. The volcano has been erupting for thousands of years and remains very much alive. Sicily sits on one of the most geologically active corners of the Mediterranean.

I was picked up at the square outside my B&B early in the morning. The tour included a stop in a cave and a trek up the volcano. It was quite steep in some spots.

The volcanic soil is remarkably fertile, endowing the vineyards, citrus groves, olive trees, pistachios, and other crops with remarkable flavor. I could definitely taste this in the amazing food, particularly the tomatoes, which were the best I ever tasted.

  

Siracusa — Where Ancient Greece Meets Sicily

I took a wonderful day trip from Catania to Siracusa (Syracuse), a city founded by the ancient Greeks, and an easy hour train ride away. 

It is fascinating how many layers of history you encounter in Siracusa. Greek ruins, Roman remains, Baroque architecture and Sicilian life exist side by side.

The heart of Siracusa is Ortigia, a small island connected to the mainland by bridges.  Narrow streets open onto beautiful piazzas, Baroque buildings, cafés and views of the sea. Piazza Duomo, with its magnificent cathedral, is especially impressive.

 

I was surprised by how beautiful Siracusa was and how it was so different from gritty Catania.

You realize as you walk about, that there are definite African influences in Sicily. North Africa is relatively close by, across the Mediterranean.

... so on my walk back to the train station, I stopped for a delicious bowl of couscous to wrap up a lovely outing.

 

I headed back to the train station because I was planning on taking an early bus to Taormina the next morning. But before leaving Catania, I discovered an art gallery with a Warhol and Banksy show. How cool was that!

Taormina — Between Mount Etna and the Sea

Miraculously, I found the "bus depot" in Catania. The bus driver told me to get on the bus and I obliged, not 100% sure he understood me, but I did say Taormina quite clearly. This too, was a short ride of about an hour.

I thought Taormina was one of Sicily’s most beautiful towns. It is perched high above the Ionian Sea on the eastern coast of Sicily. You have views of the Mediterranean in one direction and Mount Etna in the other. There are awesome views everywhere you turn. 

    

I really loved this place! It is touristy, but I did not mind one bit. You can just find a spot to hang out anywhere and take in the views all day long and that's exactly what I did. My spot was in the Public Gardens.

I stayed about a five-minute walk from the historic center, on Via Cappuccini, at family-owned, Hotel Condor, which also offered panoramic views of the Ionian Sea from their terraces. So pretty!

Corso Umberto, the main pedestrian street, runs through the historic center and is lined with cafés, restaurants, shops and beautiful old buildings. 

  

Down below Taormina is Isola Bella, a tiny island and nature reserve connected to the beach by a narrow strip of land. You can reach the coastal area by cable car, which spares you from the climb back up.

    

 

Taormina's most famous attraction is the Ancient Theatre (Teatro Antico) amphitheater.  It was built by the Greeks in the 3rd century and later expanded by the Romans. Its setting is spectacular, with the ruins framing views of the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. There are events all year scheduled in the amphitheater to enjoy. It is one of Taormina's most memorable sights.

Taormina was one of those places where I was perfectly happy to slow down and simply enjoy where I was. I didn't need to rush from one sight to another—the beautiful streets, the sea, Mount Etna in the distance and those incredible views were enough for me. 

Sometimes when traveling, especially solo, you are lucky to find a place where you can just sit, take it all in, and think. Taormina was that place for me.

Palermo — Sicily’s Colorful and Chaotic Capital

The next morning, I headed to Palermo, the capital of Sicily, located on the western side of the island. I was a bit sad leaving beautiful Taormina, but it was time to move on.  

The best way to get there was a five-hour train ride along the coast, starting at Taormina-Giardini station to Palermo Centrale. The train ride gave me an opportunity to see the rugged coastline and tiny Sicilian villages and I was looking forward to a new adventure on my trip.  The city reflects Sicily's complicated history, with influences from the Phoenicians, Arabs, Normans, Spanish and others who ruled the island over the centuries.

When I arrived in Palermo, I squeezed onto a public bus with my bag. It took me within a short walk to my B&B, which was only a 5-10 minute walk from the historic center. 

I must admit that I was pleased, for the most part, with the locations of my accommodations on this trip, as I could easily take a quick walk to the city center.  I stayed at Mama Tita  in a lovely old building, with freshly renovated rooms. I was psyched to go to town, and left as soon as settled in.

After picture-perfect Taormina, Palermo was a change that I found to be so interesting. It was bigger, louder and definitely more chaotic, but it felt authentic of Sicilian life.

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The historic center has many magnificent attractions which I really enjoyed viewing for its beautiful architecture. One of the most impressive sights was Palermo Cathedral, an enormous building that shows several different architectural styles because it was altered repeatedly over the centuries. 

  

Another example of Palermo's Arab- Norman heritage is the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel, famous for its elaborate golden mosaics.  I was unable to go inside, unfortunately because of a visiting dignitary, but you can do this on your visit!

I found one of Palermo's most impressive landmarks to be Teatro Massimo, Italy's largest opera house. The magnificent building which includes a grand staircase that has appeared in Hollywood films, dominates the square. Even if you don't attend a performance, it is definitely worth stopping by to see. Tours are offered daily.

  

Quattro Canti, or "Four Corners", is an ornate Baroque intersection, where two of the city's main streets meet. Each corner is decorated with fountains and statues. Standing in the middle gives a sense of Palermo's past and its incredible grandeur. All I can say is "wow". I was feeling particularly fortunate that day.

Just outside Palermo, I visited the hilltop town of Monreale, home to one of Sicily's most magnificent cathedrals. This is only about a 30-minute bus ride away, albeit a very crowded bus. The interior is covered in shimmering golden mosaics, with an enormous image of Christ above the altar. 

After the noise and bustle of Palermo, Monreale was a welcome change of pace with spectacular views from high above the city.

 

  

 


Milan - From the Duomo to Da Vinci

It was back to the airport for the final leg of my trip to Milan. I was pleased that I made it this far, without any major difficulties. This was the most ambitious of my solo trips to date and I was feeling proud.

Milan is  Italy's financial and fashion capital with some great attractions like its icing-like cathedral, the Duomo, and the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II upscale glass mall. I instantly felt at home here, coming from a large metropolitan area in the US.

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What really drove me to Milan was a painting. It is home to Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper, one of the world's most famous works of art. I made it my mission to see this painting. It became an obsession! After checking the website repeatedly, I finally got a ticket and was overjoyed.

Only a small number of people are permitted at one time into the dimly lit room. The Last Supper is located in the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Upon seeing the painting, I understood all the precautions because of its fragility and the need to protect it.

I discovered that Milan was a city with a strong affinity for beauty. There was nothing boring about this place. 

  

Italy's Lake District sits at the foot of the Alps, close to the Swiss border.  It is famous for its deep blue lakes surrounded by mountains, villas, gardens and small towns clustered along the shoreline.

One of the wonderful things about Milan is how close it is to the Lake District. Lake Como and Varenna are only about a 40 to 60 minute train ride from Milan Centrale train station.

This time, I chose to join a tour from "Get Your Guide". The scheduling of the ferries to the various towns was cumbersome to figure out on my own with my limited time. It was a good choice except there were lots of people on the tour.

We stopped in beautiful Bellagio and Varenna and gaped at the other towns from the ferry. The towns of Como, Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio are connected by ferries, making the ride part of the experience. 

Bellagio is probably the most famous town, sitting where the lake divides in two. Varenna has a quiet feel with colorful buildings along the waterfront.

I can see why the rich and famous stay in this region. It is absolutely gorgeous!  

Lake Como is the easiest to combine with a stay in Milan. Something to think about for another time.  

 

  

Eating My Way Through Italy

What absolutely makes Italy one of my favorite destinations is the food. 

Every region has its specialty. Pasta alla Norma is one of Catania’s signature dishes. It combines pasta with tomato sauce, fried eggplant, basil and grated ricotta salata.  Swordfish is especially associated with eastern Sicily. In Milan, it was risotto. Sarde in saor is a classic Venetian specialty—sardines with sweet-and-sour onions, vinegar, raisins and pine nuts (I did not actually try that dish because of an aversion to sardines, but I'm sure it is excellent). Even plain old pasta in a marinara sauce tastes exquisite when you have it in Italy. Mange!

 

  

 

   

 

My Final Thoughts

I didn't always know where to go, couldn't communicate well, got some strange looks ... but in the end, it all worked out well. As a solo traveler, you meet people more than willing to help. In all honesty, there is a lot to figure out along the way but that is part of the fun. 

You'll never know unless you give it a try, so go ahead and take that trip to Italy or wherever your heart desires. If I can do it, so can you!