Morocco is one of those exotic, dreamy places that I had thought about going to for a while.
When it comes to seeing Morocco, joining an escorted tour is the way to go. It is a great way to see the country without having to worry about navigating the maze-like medinas or arranging transportation between cities — things which I would find particularly challenging as a solo woman traveler.
As it goes, the trip was not without drama. On the connecting flight from Paris to Casablanca, the pilot informed us that some men "were being returned to Morocco". They were young men in their 20s, seated in the rear of the plane, with twist ties on their wrists. Really? On a commercial flight? Happy to report no incidents.
Our journey took us from Rabat to Fez, then south toward Erfoud and the edge of the Sahara, through the dramatic landscapes around Ouarzazate, on to the Atlantic coast at Essaouira, and finally to the bustle of Marrakesh and Casablanca.
Morocco has beautiful architecture, brilliant colors, different smells and sounds, and sweeping desert landscapes. Every stop revealed a completely different side of the country.
That's exactly what made Morocco so memorable.
Rabat — An Introduction to Morocco
Rabat is Morocco's capital. Compared with Fez and Marrakesh, Rabat tends to feel more relaxed, which makes it a nice start to Morocco. The Mausoleum of Mohammed V — directly across from Hassan Tower contains the tombs of King Mohammed V and his sons, including King Hassan II.
After the Mausoleum, we made our way over to a local market for some refreshments.
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Fez — Into the Medina
Fez is dramatically different from Rabat. It is famous for Fes el-Bali, its ancient walled medina and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The medina is a maze of thousands of narrow lanes and alleys filled with tiny shops, food stalls, workshops, mosques and homes. Goods are still transported by handcarts and donkeys. It's very easy to understand why having a guide here is a good idea! You might never find your way out of there otherwise.
One of Fez's most famous sights is the Chouara Tannery, where leather has been processed using traditional methods for centuries. From terraces above the tannery, you can look down on stone vats filled with dyes in a patchwork of colors. There is an awful smell (probably from the dead animals) omnipresent. Visitors are handed sprigs of mint to hold near their noses. I was not able to stay very long for this reason.
Fez is also known for its artisans. Throughout the medina you'll find craftsmen producing beautiful leather goods, ceramics, metalwork, carpets and intricate woodwork, often using techniques passed down through generations.
Our guide was concerned about one of us disappearing in the Medina, so he didn't permit us to shop around, which was a disappointment because there were so many beautiful things. This is one of the pitfalls of an organized tour.
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Volubilis - Ancient Roman Ruins - 2,000 Years Ago
It seems that everywhere you travel, you are bound to run into ancient Roman ruins. Those Romans certainly got around! Morocco was no exception.
On the way to Fez, we stopped at Volubilis which has beautifully preserved mosaic floors depicting mythological figures and animals. I can just imagine what this city was like at the time. This visit was a surprising, unexpected encounter in contrast to the medinas, Islamic architecture, and desert landscapes in Morocco.
Two of its most impressive structures are the Basilica and the Triumphal Arch of Caracalla, constructed in the third century.
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Erfoud — Gateway to the Sahara
Erfoud is a small desert town in eastern Morocco, near the edge of the Sahara. After the crowded medinas of Fez, arriving in this part of Morocco feels like entering a different country. The scenery becomes increasingly dry and stark, with palm oases, rocky desert and vast open landscapes.
The dunes can rise dramatically above the surrounding desert and are especially beautiful around sunrise and sunset.
Camel rides are a popular thing to do in the Sahara. The ride in the Sahara was bumpy in a 4x4 to meet up with the camels and their handlers. My very calm camel was named Alibaba.
The camel ride is serene and it is breathtaking to take in the desert scenery, but it does take some time getting used to the camel's movement. The handler was very good at keeping the camel steady, but you need to hold on when it gets up or sits down because that is one rocky move!
The handler also takes scores of unsolicited Instagram worthy pictures. It's all part of the experience.
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The region around Erfoud is also famous for fossils. Hundreds of millions of years ago, this now-arid landscape was beneath the sea. Fossilized ammonites and other marine creatures are found in the surrounding rock, and local workshops turn fossil-rich stone into tables, bowls, decorative pieces and other objects.
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Ouarzazate — Kasbahs, Desert Landscapes and Hollywood
Ouarzazate sits in southern Morocco between the High Atlas Mountains and the Sahara. After Erfoud and the desert landscapes, the journey toward Ouarzazate takes you through some of Morocco's most dramatic scenery—rocky mountains, deep valleys, palm-filled oases and traditional earthen villages.
It's also one of the most important filmmaking centers in North Africa. The extraordinary landscapes around Ouarzazate have been used as locations for numerous international movies and television productions. Atlas Studios, just outside the city, is one of the best-known film studios in the area.
Unfortunately, because of earthquake damage, we were unable to visit Aït Benhaddou, a spectacular fortified village which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its reddish earthen buildings rise above the surrounding landscape and have appeared in productions including Gladiator and Game of Thrones.
Essaouira — City on the Atlantic Ocean
Essaouira is one of Morocco's most appealing coastal towns and a wonderful contrast to places like Fez and Marrakesh.
Sitting directly on the Atlantic Ocean, Essaouira has a much more relaxed feeling. Its old medina is surrounded by fortified walls and ramparts, but unlike the labyrinth of Fez, it is easier to explore. The medina is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
One of the most colorful areas is the fishing harbor, where rows of blue boats crowd the port and fishermen bring in their daily catch. Nearby restaurants and stalls serve fresh seafood, making the harbor an especially lively part of town.
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Marrakesh - Urban Chaos
Marrakesh is one of Morocco's most famous cities—and probably one of its most intense. After traveling through the quieter desert and mountain regions, arriving in Marrakesh brings you right back into the noise, color, and crowds of urban Morocco.
At the heart of the old city is Jemaa el-Fnaa, the enormous square that has been the center of Marrakesh life for centuries. Surrounding Jemaa el-Fnaa are the souks, an endless network of narrow lanes packed with shops selling carpets, leather goods, lanterns, spices, ceramics, jewelry and just about everything else.
Wandering through the souks was my favorite part of Marrakesh. In this Medina, I had no time restrictions and it was fun popping into the shops and bargaining with the vendors. Unlike Fez, it is not difficult to find your way out.
You will probably see snake charmers in the square. If you snap a photo of them, they expect compensation, so beware. If you don't pay them, they get quite irate, just so you know.
Casablanca — Morocco’s Modern Side
Casablanca was our last stop.
Casablanca is Morocco’s largest city and its major economic and commercial center, with busy boulevards, modern buildings and a cosmopolitan atmosphere.
The city's big attraction is the magnificent Hassan II Mosque, dramatically positioned on the Atlantic Ocean. Completed in 1993, it is one of the largest mosques in the world, with an extraordinarily tall minaret that dominates Casablanca's skyline.
Unlike many mosques in Morocco, the Hassan II Mosque can be visited by non-Muslims on guided tours at designated times. The interior showcases remarkable Moroccan craftsmanship—intricate tilework, carved wood, marble and elaborate plasterwork.
Casablanca also has a long Atlantic waterfront. The Corniche is lined with restaurants, cafés and hotels and presents a modern face of Morocco.
Casablanca, the famous 1942 Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman movie, took place in the fictional "Rick's Cafe". Well, we were sure to find a facsimile of "Rick's Cafe" in Casablanca and stop there for a bite. It was amazing!
Final Thoughts About Traveling in Morocco
Morocco is a country of contrasts. There are so many sides to the country. I traveled from imperial cities and ancient medinas through the Sahara region, kasbah country and Marrakesh before ending in Morocco's modern metropolis .
It was definitely an active trip that I recommend doing, with friendly people and delicious cuisine. It is a feast for your senses. Especially in the medinas, you feel transported in time. I personally enjoyed bargaining with the vendors. Our guide told us to start at 50% of asking price. I usually paid about 70%. Most times the differential is so small. It is easy to get carried away in the negotiations.
I really didn't mind, for the most part, all the bus time, but there were days when I got impatient. The distances between cities is considerable and that is just the way it goes. If you do not like being on buses, then this is not the trip for you.
As far as safety, in Marrakesh that was not an issue. I walked back from the medina to our hotel on my own a couple of times. The path was open and busy with pedestrians. In the evening the medina was really crowded and chaotic, and I didn't stay very long. That was a bit much.
Parts of Casablanca were a different story. On the walk back to the hotel from Rick's, we tried a shortcut on Google Maps and ended up, unknowingly, in a sketchy area for a brief time. In retrospect, I would have grabbed a ride share.
Hope you enjoyed reading this post!
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