Adios Mon Ami

I figured as long as I was in the region, it would make sense to include a trip to Turkey, since so many people have recommended it. I needed to see for myself and the flight was only ~ an hour from Heraklion.

Istanbul airport is huge, beautiful and modern. It left a good impression. The airport is far from the city center and taxi drivers hustle for passengers when you leave the terminal. I knew it should cost about $40 to get to my hotel, the taxi was metered, so I got in. I think the driver (and his friend doing translation) were not accustomed to dealing with a solo woman traveler. My driver asked me if it was okay for him to smoke and I said no. He offered me some kind of potion to cover up the smell (as a compromise) but the answer was still a big no. Then he gave up. He was not pleased.

I have 2 days on my own before I join the tour group.

I went to the Basilica Cistern early this morning which was a good plan because of the long line that followed. This is an underground structure built around 500 AD that supplied water to the Byzantine empire. It was a little tricky figuring out how to get there by tram. You need to walk about 7 minutes outside the tram stop to the second tram connection which was confusing. Of course, there were no discernible signs nearby and I had to ask someone to point me in the right direction.

There are over 300 columns and vaulted ceilings lit with eerie lighting and grated walkways above the water which makes it easy to get around. Personally, 30 minutes there was enough time for me. The admission price seemed high, but this site is a big draw, so I sucked it up as a vulnerable tourist.

Then, I took a quick walk to the main square for a peek at Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These sites are on the group itinerary so there was no need to jump on line.

Then it was off to the Egyptian spice market, a feast to the senses with all of the colors and smells.

This place was packed with tourists. An hour is enough time to spend there unless you have a shopping spree in mind. I went mainly for the experience.

Tomorrow, I was thinking of going to the Galata Tower which is on the Asian side of the Bosporus river. It's supposed to be an artsy district and it is not on the tour itinerary so I might as well go.

CLIMB TO GALATA TOWER

I got an early start and jumped on the tram for 5 stops during rush hour and crossed the bridge by foot to the other side of the Bosphorus River. The fishermen were out but I didn't see any catches yet.

Getting to the tower was easy except that my GPS guided me to a hill covered with cobblestone. Good thing it wasn't raining.

The tower itself was as expected. The ticket to the top is $40! No thank you. I wandered for a few moments then made my way down retracing my steps.

Just a note about Istanbul - the men are heavy smokers and the smell of smoke is practically everywhere. If you have respiratory issues, I would not recommend coming here. Just saying.

MY FIRST HAMAM

Going to a Hamam is a very Turkish thing. This is a cleansing ritual specific to Turkey and possibly a few other cultures. I wasn't convinced about doing it, but glad I did. If you are modest, you probably wouldn't enjoy being in same room as other naked women (men if you are a man obviously). But it is something worth experiencing.

First, you get a full body scrub, which feels intense, but exfoliates dead skin and leaves your skin so soft, This is followed by a foam wash with massage, then a cleansing. It is very relaxing and refreshing.

I went to a spa a few minutes from my hotel where nobody spoke English and I wasn't always sure about the hand gestures. I don't think they have had anyone from the US because of the stares but they were very nice and I'll send them more people if anyone is interested.

HAGIA SOPHIA

The Hagia Sophia was originally constructed as a church during the Byzantine era ~500AD; converted to a mosque during the Ottoman conquest in 1453; converted into a museum in 1935: finally reconverted into a mosque in 2020.

BLUE MOSQUE

Well, it has been some time since I had a blog entry and I’m excited to begin a new adventure in Greece.

This week there is a US government shutdown and air traffic controllers are calling out sick. My fingers are crossed that there will be no flight delays or worse, cancellations. I obsessively check the airline for updates. The President is threatening more government layoffs this week so it will be a miserable week for many people I imagine.

This will be my second time going to Greece. I was there 10 years ago with my travel buddy daughter, during the financial meltdown, but this time I will be covering new territory on the Peloponnese and Crete on my own. I have a passion for antiquities so I am really looking forward to this trip starting in Athens, then Olympia, Delphi, and Crete. Greek food will be an additional bonus. I can’t wait for the souvlaki and moussaka.

To my relief, the flight went according to plan. Once I arrived in Athens, 9 hours later, customs was swift and easy. The metro train to the city was a short walk from the airline terminal, so other than the train being relatively crowded, the trip was smooth. The blue line takes you to Syntagma Square, the home of Parliament / changing of the guard.

Then a quick transfer to the red line and 2 stops to Sygnau Fix station. I arrived to the hotel, 75 minutes later, after a quick Cappuccino, and was allowed to check in before the designated time. It was good taking a hot shower after a long flight. The Plaka, a bustling tourist area with a multitude of souvenir shops and restaurants adjacent to the Acropolis, is a10 minute walk from the hotel. I couldn’t ask for a better location.

Not feeling jet lagged, I headed out to Plaka and wandered over to the Roman forum to take a look. Nice!

After purchasing a few small ceramic souvenirs, I headed back to the hotel for dinner and to meet up with my travel group.

Acropolis in the distance on the hill

I made a couple of new friends, received information on the schedule, and then decided to get gelato and go for an evening walk. This area of Athens is very pleasant with a chill vibe. I don’t remember it being this nice years ago. There have been lots of improvements, particularly with the restaurants and shops.

Vegan cooking class

The following morning, we headed out to the Acropolis Museum which has an amazing collection of antiquities.The museum was built above ancient city dwellings, viewable from above through a glass sidewalk. Our guide pointed out that it is very difficult to embark on any new construction in Athens because all archaeological sites are protected and there is plenty to be discovered in this city.

The original sculptures and carvings from the Parthenon, plus some artifacts from the Temple of Athena (which pre-dated the Parthenon!) are beautifully displayed throughout the museum which is only 16 years old.

Women of the Erectheion Temple

It is evident that the museum is experiencing “over-tourism” by the sheer numbers of tourists. I had thought things would have slowed down from the summer, but that was definitely not the case.

Our guide, a lovely, knowledgeable graduate of the University of Athens, couldn’t help but mention that many of the artifacts and sculptures were removed by Lord Elgin and moved to the British Museum. I totally support returning them to their rightful home in Greece where they belong. Maybe this will get corrected one day by a unified national outcry "bring them home!"

Having already been to the Parthenon on my first visit to Greece, I skipped this outing and headed to the beautiful and magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus Amphitheater, currently used for worldwide performances and concerts. Too bad there were none scheduled at this time. I just had to settle for the smell of Jasmine permeating the air and olive trees draping the landscape.

But I was fortunate to get a full view of the Parthenon on the hill from below. If you are planning a visit, tickets are timed and should be purchased in advance on-line or you can miss this experience. You wouldn’t want that to happen, so get your ticket ASAP!

Peloponnese Peninsula

West of Athens is what is known as the Peloponnese Peninsula, home to the cities of Olympia and Delphi.

En route to Olympia, we stopped at the Corinth Canal which separates the Peninsula from the Greece mainland.

After a brief stop, we moved on to Mycenae, with structures over 4,000 years old situated on a beautiful hilltop. If not mistaken, this was the birthplace of Greek mythology. The citadel of Mycenae was the center of the powerful Mycenaean civilization, a major political and economic hub associated with King Agamemnon, who led forces in the Trojan war. There is an extraordinary beehive tomb in his memory a short distance away.

OLYMPIA

Not far from Mycenae is Olympia, the birthplace of the Olympic Games, dating back to 776 BCE and an UNESCO World Heritage site. It contains remains of buildings the ancient Greeks used as worship areas, a sports stadium, symposia centres and more.

Originally, Olympia was a religious site dedicated to Zeus, king of the gods. The games were part of a religious festival not just a sporting event, combining athletics, sacrifices, and cultural gatherings. A sacred truce was declared among Greece’s city states, so people could attend the games. Winners received a wreath of olive leaves symbolizing peace and honor.

We actually ran across the ancient track field for an Olympian experience. I had a good start but ran out of breath towards the end.

At the Archaeological Museum of Olympia you can see the ancient exhibits up close, the most important ones being the celebrated statue of Hermes by Praxiteles and the sculptures that used to decorate the Temple of Zeus, considered among the greatest ancient Greek Art creations and 7th World Wonder. The temple was destroyed by earthquakes and by humans who looted its materials.

Hermes

Painting of Zeus in his Temple

Medusa

Moving on to Delphi

After Olympia, we moved along to Delphi, stopping to take a cooking class and to learn Greek dancing along the way.

On the way to Delphi, you cross the beautiful Antirrio bridge to get across the Gulf of Corinth.

... and travel along a beautiful winding road with a landscape full of mountains and olive tree groves. The quaint seaside town of Nafpaktos is a convenient place to stop for a coffee and a walk on the beach and definitely a place worth returning to one day.

Unfortunately, the roads are marked with many small memorials, in the form of churches, for those who have passed in car accidents. Slow down!

Once we arrived to our hotel, we were greeted by a delightful sunset.

In Delphi, you will find the Temple of Apollo, located on Mount Parnassus and a UNESCO world heritage site. It is famous for the Oracle of Delphi where the priestess Pythia delivered prophecies inspired by Apollo. The temple was part of a larger sacred complex which included a theatre, a stadium, and a spring.

The Delphi Archaeological Museum holds one of the richest collections of ancient Greek art and religious objects, and is especially connected to the Sanctuary of Apollo and the Oracle at Delphi. It spans from the Mycenaean period through late antiquity.

Included in the museum is the Charioteer of Delphi, a rare and beautifully preserved bronze statue,

the Sphinx of Naxos,

And the Omphalo... Delphi was believed to be the center of the earth from this sacred stone.

So many treasures.

It is really helpful to read Greek mythology before visiting these sites to understand the relationship between the ancient characters of this civilization.

CRETE

Greece is a treasure trove of ancient history. When you visit these amazing archaeological sites, it's expected that there will be an associated museum nearby that houses its precious artifacts, protecting them from outside elements. (If you are not a person who likes going to museums, this is probably not a trip for you).

Such is the case with Heraklion. The museum houses many gems, but particularly stunning are the Minoan frescos from the Knossos palace.