Croatia, once a republic of communist Yugoslavia, has emerged as a popular tourist destination in recent years. Since the 1990s, it has transitioned into a democratic society.
Split is the third largest city in Croatia, after Zagreb and Dubrovnik. It is a small country with only 4 million people. Life here is slow and relaxed ... and very dependent on tourism. The English language is widely spoken.
Reaching Split from the United States is not easy. There are no direct flights and you need to stop somewhere in Eastern Europe for a layover most likely. The airlines are packed and boarding is not a fun process, but once you arrive at your destination, it's worth it.
Croatia’s allure lies in its rugged Dalmatian coast, a picturesque stretch along the Adriatic Sea, a shared body of water with Italy’s eastern coast.
ACCOMMODATIONS
I stayed at the modern, very clean Hotel Amphora, about a ten minute ride to town. It is a large hotel which serves many tour groups. It is situated across the from a lovely beach (Znjan) with a promenade fully utilized by eager sports enthusiasts, dog walkers and families; it consists of multiple updated recreation areas which are active day and night. There are also great restaurants and bars along the beach.
During the shoulder season in April, preparations for the summer season begin. It’s an ideal time to visit as stores and restaurants are open and not overcrowded.
DIOCLETIAN PALACE
Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient Roman emperor’s residence from a bygone era, is the main attraction of the old town of Split. While you may not find treasures and artifacts, the preserved ancient walls are the primary remnants of this historical site. The city often uses the space for special events like weddings or festivals. For 8 additional euros, you can explore the bell tower and church which contains some historical artifacts.
The streets within the palace grounds are lined with charming shops and eateries. You can easily get lost in the winding alleyways, but that’s all part of the fun.
THE RIVA
The Riva, a charming promenade, stretches between the harbor and the palace. Along its waterfront, vendors offer a delightful array of goods, including all sorts of products made with lavender and olive oil. During my visit, there were artists displaying their jewelry, paintings, and ceramic works. Nearby, a lovely farmers market showcases an abundance of fresh produce.
DALMATIAN ISLANDS
The ferries to the Dalmatian islands are conveniently located in the harbor directly outside the palace.
I visited Brac Island with a charming town and multiple villages, wineries, parks, beautiful harbor, and the highest vantage point for breathtaking views of the sea and islands. It’s definitely worth spending a few hours there, especially since the sojourn includes a very pleasant one-hour ferry ride from old town Split. However, keep in mind that it shouldn’t be a full-day excursion because there’s not much else to do there.
KLIS FORTRESS
Fans of the HBO series “Game of Thrones” flock to Split to visit the Klis Fortress, where many of the show’s scenes were filmed. While I found it interesting, the attraction was a bit overhyped. However, I support it if it contributes to the wellbeing of the Croatian economy.
KRKA NATIONAL PARK
About 90 minutes from Split is KRKA National Park, one of Croatia's most famous natural attractions. Here you will find waterfalls cascading through lush scenery, wooden walkways, and beautiful turquoise water. The park follows the beautiful KRKA river and is well worth a visit.
Nearby is a town where Bill Gates hangs out (as per our tour manager)
KRKA is a special place.
* photos courtesy of Vivian P.
MOSTAR, Bosnia Herzegovina
An easy day trip (2.5 hours) from Split is the city of Mostar, located in southern Bosnia Herzegovina. It reflects a mix of Ottoman history, Austrian-Hungarian influences, and Slavic culture. You must go through passport control when entering, so please don't forget your passport!
The main attraction is the Stari Most or Old Bridge, constructed in the 1500s during the Ottoman Empire. It was demolished during the Bosnian war in the 1990s and rebuilt. Now it is a symbol of resilience and unity.
The center includes cobblestone streets, stone houses, minarets from the mosques, and bazaar style shops.
Our guide- part-time comedian
SIBENIK
Sibenik is a 1,000 year old, very walkable city on the Dalmatian coast founded by the Croats. The old town is a lot smaller than Split and about an hour away. The attractions are the gothic, renaissance St. James Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, entirely built of stone slabs and several dramatic fortresses sitting on very high hilltops.
Art class church sketchers
TROGIR
Trogir is a tiny historic town on its own island reachable by bridge ... and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main attraction is the Cathedral of St. Lawrence which is an intricately carved Romanesque church. The town itself has narrow cobblestone streets and Venetian architecture everywhere.
Trogir elementary school
CONCLUSION
I didn't know what to expect in traveling to Croatia. I had heard that the coast is very beautiful and it was. But after spending a few days here I really was impressed with the people. What was most impressive were the families that I observed on the beach promenade. They appeared to be cohesive, wholesome units ... something which I have not seen very often in my experience in the USA. They definitely serve as a model for our society.
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