In 2024, I traveled solo to Cambodia and Vietnam, a journey that became one of my all-time favorite and most interesting adventures.
I began in Phnom Penh, where I learned about Cambodia’s tragic history under the Khmer Rouge, before continuing to Siem Reap and the extraordinary temples of Angkor.
Traveling through Cambodia gave me a deeper understanding of the country’s history, culture and remarkably welcoming people. Angkor Wat was the sight I had anticipated most, but Phnom Penh and the Cambodian countryside made equally lasting impressions.
After Cambodia, I continued on to Vietnam, traveling through the country from Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta to Hoi An, Hue, Halong Bay and Hanoi.GETTING TO CAMBODIA
I traveled to Southeast Asia with Cathay Pacific airlines and had a connecting flight in Singapore. I planned to stop at Singapore airport because I had seen amazing videos of its butterfly garden, magnificent water fountains, and immense, surreal gardens. It did not disappoint. There was a very nice shopping mall there as well, so the layover wait flew by quickly (figuratively speaking 😊😊).
When I finally arrived at the Phnom Penh airport, I waited for my Grab driver, but in the interim, was bombarded by a swarm of random taxi drivers vying for my ride. I shooed them away. I was glad when my driver eventually showed up, after what seemed to be a long wait. Happily, I was dropped off at my hotel ~30 mins later.
My travel group was meeting the next day, so I had some free time to wander about once I got settled. I took a stroll down the road from my hotel and spotted a shop selling stylish bags made with recycled materials. I bought a couple of pouches to keep myself organized.
But first, saw a storefront for "Massage" with a bunch of ladies standing outside. I assessed that they looked okay, like regular folks. Hopefully nothing weird would happen. Massages in Southeast Asia are ridiculously affordable and hard to pass up. The ladies were very eager to take me as it looked like a slow day. The massage was mostly fine, except I told myself that this was not one of my best moves.
PHNOM PENH AND CAMBODIA'S TRAGIC HISTORY
The next morning, I met up with Tran, the tour manager, and the rest of the travelers. The group seemed nice and friendly so I anticipated that it would be a good trip. I was kind of adopted by a married couple from California (former sky divers) and an extended family traveling together from Philadelphia, so there were always people to chat and hang out with.
The first stop in Phnom Penh was the impressive Royal Palace, home to important Cambodian cultural treasures the official residence of the King of Cambodia.
But the place that left the greatest impression on me was the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a haunting reminder of the brutality of the Khmer Rouge regime led by Pol Pot from 1975 to 1979.
The Khmer Rouge attempted to transform Cambodia into an extreme agrarian communist society. Cities were emptied, families were displaced, and people were forced into agricultural labor. Intellectuals, professionals and countless others considered enemies of the regime were persecuted and killed.
An estimated 1.5 to 2 million Cambodians died from execution, starvation, disease and forced labor during this period—an astonishing proportion of the country's population. In late 1978, Vietnamese forces invaded Cambodia, and the Khmer Rouge government fell in early 1979.
I found the museum difficult to experience, but I also felt it was important to keep my eyes open. Places like this force you to confront what happened to ordinary people and why these chapters of history should never be forgotten.
The award-winning 1984 film The Killing Fields depicts this terrible period in Cambodia's history and is well worth seeing for anyone interested in understanding more about what the country endured.
ANGKOR WAT IN SIEM REAP
Built in the 12th century, Angkor Wat—meaning “Temple City”—is Cambodia's most famous monument and the centerpiece of the vast Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing numerous temples and archaeological remains. The entire area is enormous, and you could easily spend two or more days exploring it.
The temple is also famous for its extensive bas-reliefs, which cover its galleries with elaborate scenes from Hindu mythology and Cambodian history.
Angkor Wat is so important to Cambodia's national identity that an image of the temple appears in the center of the Cambodian flag.
Herds of tourists arrive before dawn to watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat, perhaps trying to get in touch with their spiritual side—or just hoping to get that special photo. It is anything but tranquil.
Site with overgrown tree roots . Appears in the film "Tomb Raider"
SIEM REAP AND CAMBODIAN COUNTRYSIDE
As the main gateway to Angkor Wat and the temples of Angkor, Siem Reap is very much a tourist town, but I found the atmosphere relaxed and welcoming. There are plenty of restaurants, markets, cafés and hotels at a wide range of prices.
The food was surprisingly good, and the people I encountered were warm and hospitable. After spending so much time exploring the ancient temples, I enjoyed simply walking around Siem Reap and experiencing the town itself.
Lastly, I visited the National Museum of Cambodia in Phnom Penh, which houses an impressive collection of Cambodian art and historic artifacts, including treasures from the country's Khmer past. It was a peaceful and fitting conclusion to my Cambodian adventure.
VIETNAM AND CAMBODIA VISA TIP
Is Cambodia Good for Older Solo Travelers?
I found Cambodia fascinating and generally welcoming as an older solo woman traveler, but I appreciated joining a travel group after my initial time alone in Phnom Penh. Having transportation and a knowledgeable guide arranged made visiting the historical sites and traveling between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap considerably easier.
Exploring the temples of Angkor involves walking, heat and some uneven surfaces, so comfortable shoes, water and a manageable pace are important. Angkor Wat can also become extremely crowded around sunrise. I would recommend asking a tour company about walking distances and steps before booking.
I used Grab for transportation from the Phnom Penh airport and relied on my instincts when streets felt unfamiliar. Cambodia was one of the most memorable parts of my Southeast Asia journey, and I was very glad I went.
