So many people recommended visiting Turkey on my prior trips so I needed to see it for myself. The trip was a little over an hour's flight from Heraklion so, logistically, it made sense to go there this time.
Istanbul airport is huge, beautiful and modern. It left a good impression. The airport is far from the city center and taxi drivers hustle for passengers when you leave the terminal. I knew it should cost about $40 to get to my hotel, the taxi was metered, so I got in.
I think the driver (and his friend doing translation) were not accustomed to dealing with a solo woman traveler. My driver asked me if it was okay for him to smoke and I said no. He offered me some kind of potion to cover up the smell (as a compromise) but the answer was still a big no. Then he gave up. He was not pleased.
I have 2 days on my own before I join the tour group. I stayed at the Millennium Golden Horn, a boutique type hotel with a definite chill Istanbul vibe. It was conveniently located a couple of blocks from the tram stop which takes you to the city center. Once I figured out how to purchase the Istanbul card, I was on my way.
I went to the Basilica Cistern early this morning which was a good plan because of the long line that followed. This is an underground structure built around 500 AD that supplied water to the Byzantine empire.
It was a little tricky figuring out how to get there by tram. You need to walk about 7 minutes outside the tram stop to the second tram connection which was confusing. Of course, there were no discernible signs nearby and I had to ask someone to point me in the right direction.
There are over 300 columns and vaulted ceilings lit with eerie lighting and grated walkways above the water which makes it easy to get around. Personally, 30 minutes there was enough time for me. The admission price of $40 seemed high, but this site is a big draw, so I sucked it up as a vulnerable tourist.
Halloween came early this year.
Then, I took a quick walk to the main square for a peek at Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. These sites are on the group itinerary so there was no need to jump on line.
Turkey is a secular, modern democracy with a population that is 99% Muslim. About 30% attend services in the mosques. In 1923, it became an official republic, free of the ruling Ottoman Empire (600 years) and transformed from a religious society into a modern Western oriented nation, although some say the society may be undergoing a shift. The economy faces challenges with high inflation. I get a sense things are not going well these days.
Then it was off to the Egyptian spice market, a feast to the senses with all of the colors and smells.
This place was packed with tourists. An hour is enough time to spend there unless you have a shopping spree in mind. I went mainly for the experience.
Tomorrow, I was thinking of going to the Galata Tower which is on the Asian side of the Bosphorus river. It's supposed to be an artsy district and it is not on the tour itinerary so I might as well go. There is a myth that the first time couples will climb it, they will marry!
CLIMB TO GALATA TOWER
I got an early start and jumped on the tram for 5 stops during rush hour and crossed the bridge by foot to the other side of the Bosphorus River. The fishermen were out but I didn't see any catches yet.
Getting to the tower was easy except that my GPS guided me to a hill covered with cobblestone. Good thing it wasn't raining.
The tower itself was as expected. The ticket to the top is $40! No thank you. I wandered for a few moments then made my way down retracing my steps.
The nearby Galatsport area is off of the Bosphoros river with a cruise terminal and many restaurants by the water. Worth checking out on your visit to this area.
Just a note about Istanbul - the men are heavy smokers and the smell of smoke is everywhere. If you have respiratory issues, I would not recommend this city or wear a mask!
MY FIRST HAMAM
Going to a Hamam is a very Turkish thing. This is a cleansing ritual specific to Turkey and possibly a few other cultures. I wasn't convinced about doing it, but glad I did. If you are modest, you probably wouldn't enjoy being in same room as other naked women (men if you are a man obviously). But it is something worth experiencing.
First, you get a full body scrub, which feels intense, but exfoliates dead skin and leaves your skin so soft, This is followed by a foam wash with massage, then a cleansing. It is very relaxing and refreshing.
I went to a spa a few minutes from my hotel where nobody spoke English and I wasn't always sure about the hand gestures. I don't think they have had anyone from the US because of the stares but they were very nice and I'll send them more people if anyone is interested.
HAGIA SOPHIA
The Hagia Sophia was originally constructed as a church during the Byzantine era ~500AD; converted to a mosque during the Ottoman conquest in 1453; converted into a museum in 1935: finally reconverted into a mosque in 2020.
It is huge and Istanbul's most iconic landmark. Admission is ~$28
THE BLUE MOSQUE
The Ottoman era Blue Mosque or the Sultan Ahmed mosque is known for its stunning interior of 20,000 handmade blue tiles, magnificent domes, six minarets, and sits right opposite the Hagia Sophia. It was built around 1600 under the rule of Sultan Ahmed. The interior is dominated by one large dome and several mini domes.
Be sure to remove your shoes and women need to wear head scarves before you enter.
The site is actively used for prayer several times a day.
The Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar, a shopper's paradise, covers miles of stores and is overwhelming to navigate. While it is customary to negotiate prices with merchants, jewelry seemed to be an exception. You can spend days going through this complex and should come up for air so you don't get dizzy with all the choices. The local goods are awesome ... tea sets, rugs, pottery, scarves, lamps, and so much more. The area outside the bazaar also has good deals if you have the energy to explore more.
TROY (Troia)
I think everyone is somewhat familiar with the story of the Trojan horse which was a ruse by the Greeks to gain access to the fortified city of Troy by hiding soldiers inside the wooden horse left as a gift. The story is told by Homer in the Iliad.
For centuries, people believed this was purely a mythical story, but an archeologist in the 1870's, Heinrich Schliemann proved otherwise and uncovered the fortified city of Troy.
Near Canakkale, you can visit the historical site of Troy which actually existed. Of course, the Trojan horse is not available.
A facsimile of the wooden "Trojan Horse" from 2004 Brad Pitt movie in downtown Canakkale.
PERGAMON
Pergamon, not far from the city of Izmir, was a powerful kingdom in the Hellenistic period, 300BC. The ancient ruins include a hospital/ spa. It was a major intellectual and cultural center of learning in the ancient world.
Separately, street dogs and cats are cared for by the locals on a regular basis in Turkey. Several people in the group carried dog and cat food with them to feed these very tame communal animals. You can find them at all the historical sites.
We were invited by local village women for a home cooked lunch . They were all very hospitable and the food was good.
EPHESUS
Ephesus is one of the greatest cities of the ancient world. The golden age was 200-300BC and 250,000 people lived there. It was a key port of the Aegean Sea.
A major site is the Library of Celsus which once held 12,000 scrolls. It has been restored to withstand earthquakes which are very prevalent in this country.
The Temple of Artemis was one of the seven wonders of the world but only one column still exists.
Statue of Artemis
The Ephesus site contains a marble paved avenue once lined with statues, fountains, and temples and luxurious homes with frescos and mosaics. The sheer size of the city is astounding. Note: if you visit, do it when the cruise ships are not at port because it can get very crowded.
Ephesus is near other historical sites such as a house where people believe Mary spent her final years and is now a pilgrimage site and a basilica believed built over the tomb of the apostle John,
We stayed in Izmir, the 3rd largest city in Turkey and about an hour's drive from Ephesus.
Turkish Coffee-thick but good
PAMUKKALE
Pamukkale, meaning "cotton castles", is a hot springs, formed by calcium-rich thermal waters, and is a UNESCO world heritage site in Southwestern Turkey. It is a stunning natural wonder and located in the Greek- Roman ancient city of Heiropolis. We made a stop there on the way to Antalya.
ANTALYA
Antalya is a Turkish seaside resort town by the Mediterranean that many Europeans and Russians flock to. There is a vibrant nightlife in the residential neighborhoods and a historical center, Kaleici, a few minutes away where there is the beautiful Hadrian arch, commemorating the Rome emperor, many winding streets, and lovely views of the Mediterranean and mountains from many vantage points as you walk along.
CARAVANSERAI OF SULTANHAN
On route to Cappadocia, we stopped at the Caravanserai of Sultanhan which is a beautiful kind of roadside inn built along an ancient trade route for travelers, merchants, and their animals built in the 13th century. This one in Antolia is one of the best preserved in the world. There are massive stone walls and gates for protection.
CAPPADOCIA
Cappadocia's landscape was shaped millions of years ago by volcanic eruptions, and wind and water erosion to become one of the most photographed places on the planet. It is famous for its unworldly landscape of fairy chimneys, cave dwellings, and rock-cut Byzantine churches, many still with frescoes. This is called the Goreme Open Air Museum which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
OZKONAK UNDERGROUND CITY
This underground city, discovered by a farmer in 1972, was built to protect from invaders. Small holes above the tunnel entrances were used to pour hot oil onto the invaders. The living space included kitchens, storage, and quarters for the animals.
Local Mullah
Nearby Pasabag Vadisi , or Monks Valley, has very striking geological formations. The valley is famous for its fairy chimneys, made of soft volcanic material topped with basalt, and rock formations with mushroom caps. There are lots of scenic trails in the valley.
Cappadocia is also well known worldwide for the hot air balloon rides. People come from all over the world for the spectacular aerial views. The weather conditions need to be perfect in order for the ride to take place and the operators must be licensed. Unfortunately, the wind speed did not cooperate for us so the ride got canceled.😞
TURKISH GOODS
If you are traveling with a tour group, inevitably you will be taken to a place where artisans produce high end, quality goods for purchase. If you can afford to buy these items, they are certain to become family heirlooms. Just make sure you are not training a puppy if you purchase a rug or keep ceramic vases within reach of toddlers.
REPUBLIC DAY
Republic Day is celebrated on October 29 commemorating the founding of the Republic of Turkey in 1923 by Mustafa Ataturk following the fall of the Ottoman Empire.
There was a big celebration in the capital city of Ankara today with people all over the streets waving flags and displaying their respect and national pride for this key figure.
Uhhh... high anxiety setting in... agoraphobia (?). Thank you to Yazmin for getting us through the massive crowd with no issues.
ANATOLIAN CIVILIZATION MUSEUM, ANKARA, TURKEY
The museum covers many different eras of human civilization and contains so many unusual artifacts, particularly for the Hittites, living about 4,000 years ago. It offers a great overview of of Anatolian (aka Turkey) life thousands of years ago.
TOPKAPI PALACE
The palace dates back to 1429 when Sultan Mehmed conquered Constantinople. It served as the main residence for 400 years.
On display are jeweled daggers and swords, relics associated with Islamic history, lavishly tiled rooms, and the best view of the Bosphorus river.
There is also a display of what is claimed to be Mohammed's footprint .
Turkey is a fascinating place.
It blends East and West, modern and ancient, has incredible cultural significance, and has the most unusual natural wonders, not to mention a delicious cuisine and beautiful handicrafts. It is generally a good value for travelers and the people are friendly.
Why not add Turkey to your bucket list?
Bay Laurel Turkish Towel with Travel Bag
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