Discovering Vietnam and Cambodia - An Unforgettable Journey (Part 1)

In 2024, I traveled to Vietnam and Cambodia. 

Previously, I had visited Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, so I thought I was well equipped to handle the very long haul from NYC, which I was.

This trip ended up being one of my all time favorite and interesting trips. 

I was captivated by Anthony Bourdain's "Parts Unknown" TV series, particularly the episode filmed in Vietnam, where he shared the local people's energy, food culture, resilience, and imagination (and a bonus meal with President Obama, sitting on those tiny plastic chairs). 

Most people's connection with Vietnam, is the disastrous Vietnam War or the "American War", as the Vietnamese call it. The anti-war protest movement shook America in the '60s and '70s. I could not imagine what life in Vietnam would be like 60+ years later, or ever wanting to go there after that horrific period of destruction and loss of life. But I learned life goes on and things can change dramatically in a positive direction, given time.

My first stop on the itinerary would be nearby Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital city. This was a short, but very illuminating stay, before proceeding to Siem Reap to the impressive, ancient Angkor Wat temple, then onward to various locations in Vietnam.

GETTING TO CAMBODIA

I traveled to Southeast Asia with Cathay Pacific airlines and had a connecting flight in Singapore. I planned to stop at this luxurious airport because I had seen videos of its butterfly garden, magnificent water fountains, and immense, surreal gardens.  It did not disappoint. There was a very nice shopping mall there as well, so the the layover wait flew by quickly (figuratively speaking 😊😊). 

When I finally arrived at the Phnom Penh airport, I waited for my Grab driver, but in the interim, was aggressively approached by a swarm of random taxi drivers vying for my ride. I shooed them away. I was glad when my driver eventually showed up, after what seemed to be a long wait. Happily, I was dropped off at my hotel ~30 mins later.

My travel group was meeting the next day, so I had some free time to wander about once I got settled. I took a stroll down the road from my hotel and discovered a cute shop selling stylish hand crafted bags made with recycled materials. I grabbed a couple of pouches to keep myself organized.

I checked reviews for a few restaurants along the way, (yes ... there are restaurant reviews in Phnom Penh), and treated myself to a fresh watermelon cocktail ($3) and avocado salad. No intestinal issues to report.

I thought twice about walking further. Some of the streets looked sketchy with broken sidewalks and haphazardly parked cars. I did not want to get lost, especially not speaking the language. My inner voice told me to return to the hotel, and I listened this time, especially feeling a bit jet lagged.

But first, saw a storefront for "Massages"with a bunch of ladies standing outside. I assessed that they looked like regular folks. Hopefully nothing weird would happen.  Massages in Southeast Asia are ridiculously affordable. The ladies were very eager to take me as it looked like a slow day. The massage was mostly fine, except I told myself that this was not one of my best moves.

THE TOUR BEGINS - PHNOM PENH - 

A TRAGIC STORY FOR CAMBODIA

The next morning, I met up with Tran, the tour manager, and the rest of the travelers. The group seemed nice and friendly so I anticipated that it would be a good trip. I was kind of adopted by a married couple from California (former sky divers) and an extended family traveling together from Philadelphia, so there were always people to chat and hang out with. 

To enter Vietnam and Cambodia, you must obtain a visa. You can easily obtain visas through the government websites for a nominal fee, but MUST do so well in advance of your travels. Tran reviewed all of our visas to ensure that the information was airtight. I learned that Vietnam and Cambodia are both very strict. The information provided must be perfectly accurate with dates of travel, locations of stays, point of entry and departure, etc... and absolutely no typos.

The first stop in Phnom Penh was the impressive Royal Palace, housing Cambodia's national treasures.

A more impactful site leaving a greater impression was the Genocide Museum, a testament to the cruelties of the Khmer Rouge regime led by Pol Pot from 1975 to 1979. 

This regime attempted to create an extreme agrarian communist society and emptied the cities of all professionals and educated people, forcing millions into agricultural labor, while killing 1.5-2 million people. This was roughly one-quarter of the Cambodian population! Eventually, Vietnamese forces invaded Cambodia and overthrew the Khmer Rouge, but not soon enough to avert this despair.

I found it difficult to view the exhibits, but nevertheless, it is important to keep your eyes wide open to learn history's lessons and what can happen. 

The award winning film, "The Killing Fields" (1984) depicts this event and all its depravity.

Soldiers are mandated to visit the museum site so they develop an understanding of the country's past.

A survivor of the Khmer Rouge documented his story in an autographical book.

THE EXTRAORDINARY ANGKOR WAT TEMPLE IN SIEM REAP - CAMBODIA'S NATIONAL SYMBOL

Built in the 12th century, Angkor Wat, meaning "Temple City", is designated as one of the world's "Seven Wonders".  It is part of the Angkor Archaeological Park which contains many other remarkable temples. The entire complex is a huge site which may take 2 days to thoroughly explore.

Angkor Wat is depicted on the Cambodian flag.

Angkor Wat was originally a Hindu temple but later when Buddhism became dominant in the region, it became a Buddhist site. It was intended to represent Mount Meru, the sacred cosmic mountain at the center of Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. The five towers represent the peaks of Mount Meru. It has one of the world's longest bas-reliefs running long the outer walls, narrating stories from Hindu mythology.

It is very common for herds of tourists to arrive early in the morning to see the sun rising over the temple, trying to get in touch with their spiritual side or just hoping to get that special photo.

   

Our local guide "aka professor".

There is an incredible amount of carved sandstone.

Site with overgrown tree roots used for the filming of "Tomb Raiders" with Angelina Jolie.

You can climb to the top of these steps.

Big monkey.  Evidently, visitors don't follow the rules about feeding them.

MORE ON SIEM REAP AND NEARBY RURAL AREA

As the main gateway for exploring Angkor Wat, the atmosphere in Siem Reap was relaxing and tourist oriented with plenty of restaurants, markets, cafes, and hotels at every price level. The food was surprisingly good and the people were welcoming and hospitable.

Locals on nearby lake Tonle Sap

In the city of Siem Reap...

Grand entrance in Angkor Paradise Hotel 

Dinner and a show with beautiful, traditional Cambodian dancers

I did not decline the ox-cart ride in nearby farmlands - it was fun

... Lastly , I made a visit to the National Museum containing the country's beautiful artifacts.

A lovely conclusion to my Cambodian adventure.

    

NEXT UP - HO CHI MINH CITY (formerly Saigon)

South Africa - Beyond the Safari

My journey to South Africa, particularly Cape Town, took me to a place where cities and landscapes share the spotlight. You can spend the morning exploring a neighborhood, while in the afternoon you can watch a sunset over a nature reserve, mountain range, or coastline.

Cape Town is often called one of the world's most beautiful cities and I totally agree. Stunning beaches and panoramas are all within a short distance of the city center, one of the reasons South Africa has an acclaimed international reputation.

 

Biking enthusiasts in Cape Town                                             

South African apartheid laws ended in 1994, Nelson Mandela became President, but the pace of integration has been slow. Race is still an issue with 65 million people of which 80% are indigenous non-whites.

There is a wide gap between rich and the poor, strikingly evident in the city of Johannesburg. However, on a positive note, some progress is being made in new residential areas which are economically integrated.

But the country has a way to go.

Cape Town Marathon

When I arrived in Cape Town, the marathon was underway. It is one of Africa’s premier road races, drawing elite athletes and passionate runners from around the world to one of the most scenic routes anywhere. The race winds 26.2 miles through city streets and landscapes, with views of Table Mountain throughout the course.

The men’s race was won by Huseyidin Mohamed Esa of Ethiopia in 2:04:55, setting a new course record. In the women’s race, Dera Dida Yami of Ethiopia claimed victory in 2:23:18.

                              

Table Mountain

Table Mountain in Cape Town is one of the world's most iconic landmarks and a symbol of national identity. 

The top of the mountain is surprisingly flat. Geologists estimate that the rocks are over 500 million years old, there are over 23,000 species of plants, and it is considered one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Clouds spill over the flat summit like a blanket early in the day.

The rotating cable car is an engineering marvel giving passengers a 360 degree view during the ride to the summit. The price for a round trip ticket is R450 ( ~$27 USD). Arrive early to avoid a very long queue.

Often, it can become quite windy and the cable car will shut down temporarily but there are dozens of routes up the mountain for hikers.

On a clear day you can see Robben Island (Nelson Mandela was imprisoned there for 18 years), as well as the dramatic coastline of Cape Peninsula.

Small gopher like mammals, called Dassies, can be found lounging on top of the rocks. One of the most surprising facts is that their closest living genetic relative is the elephant. Another odd fact is that they urinate in a communal urinal. 😳

For many visitors to South Africa, Table Mountain is the single most memorable sight in Cape Town, especially at sunrise or sunset when the city, ocean and mountains are visible.

The Cape of Good Hope

The Cape of Good Hope is the most southwestern point of the African continent and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is one of South Africa's most famous landmarks. Anyone who reaches this destination is obliged to be photographed at this sign. The cape features towering cliffs above the ocean, making it one of the most photographed coastal landscapes of Africa.

The scenery is beautiful and dramatic. Wildlife is everywhere. 

You can spot baboons, ostriches, antelope and sometimes whales during migration.

Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach

Boulders Beach, about 30 miles south of Cape Town, is home to a wild African penguin colony, the only penguin species native to Africa. The colony was established in the early 1980s when just a few breeding pairs settled there. Boardwalks and viewing platforms allow visitors to observe the penguins without disturbing their nesting area.

The beach gets its name from ancient granite boulders estimated to be about 540 million years old.

The Charming Wine Towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch

45 miles east of Cape Town are the picturesque towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, settled by the French Huguenots in the 1600s, and known for the production of award winning South African wine. Many of South Africa's top restaurants are located here, making it one of the country's culinary capitals. Tours and tastings at the wineries can be booked in advance.

Game Viewing on the St. Lucia Estuary

One of South Africa's most remarkable natural areas and a UNESCO World Heritage site is the St. Lucia estuary, home to one of the largest populations of hippos. Boat cruises operate off of the estuary where you can spot groups of swimming hippos and sunning crocodiles. This is the best way to view the wildlife. At night, the hippos often leave the water to wander through the town and graze on the grass. That must be quite a sight!

The boat "safari" is just another experience to be added to your itinerary.

Boat at Dock

 They forgot to bring their Tutus  (any "Fantasia" fans?)

Hluhluwe-Imfolzi Game Reserve

Hluhluwe -Imfolzi Park, named for the rivers that flow through it, is the oldest proclaimed nature reserve in Africa, covering 370 square miles. 

It is home to the Big 5 - lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and water buffalo, among numerous other species. It is world famous, thanks to the conservationists, who saved the white rhinoceros from extinction. There were fewer than 100 white rhinos alive in the 1900s!

As a side note, capturing photos of wildlife from a jeep on a safari can be challenging.

There are usually a few individuals with keen eyesight for spotting a chetah relaxing in the grass quite a distance away. 

Best strategy is to take multiple photos in succession so as to not miss the shot, then worry about the composition later. Most of these animals are on the move.

Baby Rhino - "Little 5"

Herd of Water Buffalo - "Big 5"

Elephants heading to the waterhole -  "Big 5"

Kruger National Park

One of Africa's most famous wildlife reserves and South Africa's largest park is Kruger National Park. It covers about 7500 square miles and is considered to be one of the best places in Africa to see wildlife in a protected natural environment. 

The best time for viewing is May through September when the animals gather around water sources and the brush is thinner. There were many guided game drives at the time of my visit. 

The park maintains several camps for its visitors  ranging from lodges to luxury safari tents. However, all vehicles are required to leave the park by 5:30 pm, no exceptions.

Hint: If there are a bunch of jeeps clustered on the road, a wildlife sighting is imminent. 

Dress in layers - the morning drives can be on the chilly side.

Our very nice, knowledgeable driver

Me in the back of jeep

The cub was across the road

Last Stop - Johannesburg

Johannesburg is the largest city in South Africa and the country's main financial and economic hub, built on gold mining in the late 1800s. There are modern skyscrapers and historic, cultural areas like Soweto. The city also serves as the gateway to Kruger Park.

It is also an area where the contrast between the rich and poor becomes evident. 

The neighborhood of Sandton contains luxury hotels, homes, and shops surrounded by poorer communities. Johannesburg has high crime in these areas. It is not a place to wander around at night.

Culturally, it is important to experience Soweto, where Nelson Mandela lived a good part of his life and is an integral part of the country's complex history. 

Apartheid can be further experienced by visiting other sites such as the prison museum in downtown Johannesburg, on Constitution Hill , adjacent to the working Parliament or visiting the Apartheid Museum. These experiences will offer perspective and understanding of the country's history and struggles. 

Nelson Mandela house

Soweto Today

Apartheid Prison Museum 

Prisoners - Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi (incarcerated at different times)

South Africa is a place that will inspire and surprise you with its stellar scenery, incredible wildlife, rich cultural heritage, and resilient spirit.

Go ahead and add SA to your travel destination list!