Adios Mon Ami

My journey to South Africa, particularly Cape Town, took me to a place where cities and landscapes share the limelight. You can spend the morning exploring a neighborhood, while in the afternoon you can watch a sunset over a nature reserve, mountain range, or coastline.

Cape Town is often called one of the world's most beautiful cities and I totally agree. Stunning beaches and breathtaking landscapes are all within a short distance of the city center, one of the reasons South Africa has a growing international reputation.

Biking enthusiasts in Cape Town

South African apartheid laws ended in 1994, Nelson Mandela became President, but the pace of integration has been slow. Race is still an issue with 65 million people of which 80% are indigenous non-whites.

There is a wide gap between rich and the poor, strikingly evident in the city of Johannesburg. However, on a positive note, some progress is being made in new residential areas which are economically integrated.

But the country has a way to go.

Cape Town Marathon

When I arrived in Cape Town, the marathon was underway. It is one of Africa’s premier road races, drawing elite athletes and passionate runners from around the world to one of the most scenic routes anywhere. The race winds 26.2 miles through city streets and landscapes, with views of Table Mountain throughout the course.

The men’s race was won by Huseyidin Mohamed Esa of Ethiopia in 2:04:55, setting a new course record. In the women’s race, Dera Dida Yami of Ethiopia claimed victory in 2:23:18.

Table Mountain

Table Mountain in Cape Town is one of the world's most iconic landmarks and a symbol of national identity.

The top of the mountain is surprisingly flat. Geologists estimate that the rocks are over 500 million years old, there are over 23,000 species of plants, and it is considered one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Clouds spill over the flat summit like a blanket early in the day.

The rotating cable car is an engineering marvel giving passengers a 360 degree view during the ride to the summit. The price for a round trip ticket is R450 ( ~$27 USD). Arrive early to avoid a very long queue.

Often, it can become quite windy and the cable car will shut down temporarily but there are dozens of routes up the mountain for hikers.

On a clear day you can see Robben Island (Nelson Mandela was imprisoned there for 18 years), as well as the dramatic coastline of Cape Peninsula.

Small gopher like mammals, called Dassies, can be found lounging on top of the rocks. One of the most surprising facts is that their closest living genetic relative is the elephant. Another odd fact is that they urinate in a communal urinal. 😳

For many visitors to South Africa, Table Mountain is the single most memorable sight in Cape Town, especially at sunrise or sunset when the city, ocean and mountains are visible.

The Cape of Good Hope

The Cape of Good Hope is the most southwestern point of the African continent and is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is one of South Africa's most famous landmarks. Anyone who reaches this destination is obliged to be photographed at this sign. The cape features towering cliffs above the ocean, making it one of the most photographed coastal landscapes of Africa.

The scenery is beautiful and dramatic. Wildlife is everywhere.

You can spot baboons, ostriches, antelope and sometimes whales during migration.

Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach

Boulders Beach, about 30 miles south of Cape Town, is home to a wild African penguin colony, the only penguin species native to Africa. The colony was established in the early 1980s when just a few breeding pairs settled there. Boardwalks and viewing platforms allow visitors to observe the penguins without disturbing their nesting area.

The beach gets its name from ancient granite boulders estimated to be about 540 million years old.

The Charming Wine Towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch

45 miles east of Cape Town are the picturesque towns of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, settled by the French Huguenots in the 1600s, and known for the production of award winning South African wine. Many of South Africa's top restaurants are located here, making it one of the country's culinary capitals. Tours and tastings at the wineries can be booked in advance.

Game Viewing on the St. Lucia Estuary

One of South Africa's most remarkable natural areas and a UNESCO World Heritage site is the St. Lucia estuary, home to one of the largest populations of hippos. Boat cruises operate off of the estuary where you can spot groups of swimming hippos and sunning crocodiles. This is the best way to view the wildlife. At night, the hippos often leave the water to wander through the town and graze on the grass. That must be quite a sight!

The boat "safari" is just another experience to be added to your itinerary.

Hluhluwe-Imfolzi Game Reserve

Hluhluwe -Imfolzi Park, named for the rivers that flow through it, is the oldest proclaimed nature reserve in Africa, covering 370 square miles.

It is home to the Big 5 - lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo, among numerous other species. It is world famous, thanks to the conservationists, who saved the white rhinoceros from extinction. There were fewer than 100 white rhinos alive in the 1900s!

As a side note, capturing photos of wildlife from a jeep on a safari can be challenging.

There are usually a few individuals with keen eyesight for spotting a chetah relaxing in the grass quite a distance away.

Best strategy is to take multiple photos in succession so as to not miss the shot, then worry about the composition later. Most of these animals are on the move.

Baby Rhino - "Little 5"

Herd of Water Buffalo - "Big 5"

Elephants heading to the waterhole - "Big 5"

Kruger National Park

One of Africa's most famous wildlife reserves and South Africa's largest park is Kruger National Park. It covers about 7500 square miles and is considered to be one of the best places in Africa to see wildlife in a protected natural environment.

The best time for viewing is May through September when the animals gather around water sources and the brush is thinner. There were many guided game drives at the time of my visit.

The park maintains several camps for its visitors ranging from lodges to luxury safari tents. However, all vehicles are required to leave the park by 5:30 pm, no exceptions.

Hint: If there are a bunch of jeeps clustered on the road, a wildlife sighting is imminent.

Dress in layers - the morning drives can be on the chilly side.

Our very nice, well-informed driver

Me in the back of jeep

The cub was across the road

Last Stop - Johannesburg

Johannesburg is the largest city in South Africa and the country's main financial and economic hub, built on gold mining in the late 1800s. There are modern skyscrapers and historic, cultural areas like Soweto. The city also serves as the gateway to Kruger Park.

It is also an area where the contrast between the rich and poor becomes evident.

The neighborhood of Sandton contains luxury hotels, homes, and shops surrounded by poorer communities. Johannesburg has high crime in these areas. It is not a place to wander around at night.

Culturally, it is important to experience Soweto, where Nelson Mandela lived a good part of his life and is an integral part of the country's complex history.

Apartheid can be further experienced by visiting other sites such as the prison museum in downtown Johannesburg, adjacent to the working Parliament or visiting the Apartheid Museum. These experiences will offer perspective and understanding of the country's history and struggles.