Croatia, once a republic of communist Yugoslavia, has emerged as a popular tourist destination since transitioning to a democratic society in the 1990s.
The country borders the beautiful Adriatic Sea shared with Italy's east coast. The allure of Croatia are the quaint, picturesque towns and islands on its rugged coast, unencumbered by commercial development.
Split is the third largest city in Croatia, after Zagreb and Dubrovnik. It is a small country with only 4 million people. Life here is slow and relaxed ... and dependent on tourism where English is widely spoken.
ACCOMMODATIONS
I stayed at the modern, clean Hotel Amphora, about a ten minute ride to town. It is a large hotel which serves many tour groups. It is situated across the from a lovely beach (Znjan) with a promenade fully utilized by sports enthusiasts, dog walkers and families; it consists of multiple modern recreation areas, active day and night. There are also great restaurants and bars along the beach.
During the shoulder season in April, preparations for the summer season begin. It’s an ideal time to visit as stores and restaurants are open and not overcrowded.
DIOCLETIAN PALACE
Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient Roman emperor’s residence from a bygone era, is the signature attraction of old town Split. It was built in the early 4th century as a retirement residence but it is more of a fortified city with thick walls, towers, and gates. When the emperor died, it turned into a town with homes built inside the structure and was adapted again and again over the centuries. The preserved ancient walls are the primary remnants remaining of this historical site. The city often uses the space for special events like weddings or festivals. For 8 additional euros, you can explore the bell tower and church containing some historical artifacts.
The streets within the palace grounds are lined with charming shops and eateries. You can easily get lost in the winding alleyways.
THE RIVA
The Riva, a charming promenade, stretches between the harbor and the palace. Along its waterfront, vendors offer a delightful array of goods, including products made with lavender and olive oil. During my visit, there were artists displaying jewelry, paintings, and ceramic works. Nearby, a lovely farmers market showcases its fresh produce.
DALMATIAN ISLANDS
A key attraction to Croatia are the Dalmatian islands. The ferries to the islands are conveniently located in the harbor directly outside the Diocletian palace.
Here you will find lots of sun, stone villages, turquoise water, beautiful beaches and plenty of history. Each island has its own distinct personality.
I visited Brac Island with a charming town and multiple villages, wineries, parks, beautiful harbor, and the highest vantage point for breathtaking views of the sea and islands. It’s definitely worth spending a few hours there, especially since the sojourn includes a very pleasant one-hour ferry ride from old town Split.
Hvar is known as a flashier island with its nightlife, yachts and lavender fields. It is further from the downtown port with a longer ferry ride.
KLIS FORTRESS
Fans of the HBO series “Game of Thrones” flock to Split to visit the Klis Fortress, where many of the show’s scenes were filmed. While I found it interesting, the attraction was a bit overhyped. However, I support it if it contributes to the wellbeing of the Croatian economy.
KRKA NATIONAL PARK
About 90 minutes from Split is KRKA National Park, one of Croatia's most famous natural attractions. You can also visit the beautiful Plitvice Lakes National Park with even more cascading waterfalls a bit further from Split. In KRKA, you will find waterfalls cascading through lush scenery, wooden walkways, and beautiful turquoise water.
Nearby is a town frequently visited by Bill Gates (per our tour manager). Can you spot his yacht?
KRKA is a special place.
* photo courtesy of Vivian P.
MOSTAR, Bosnia Herzegovina
An easy day trip (2.5 hours) from Split is the city of Mostar, located in southern Bosnia Herzegovina. It reflects a mix of Ottoman history, Austrian-Hungarian influences, and Slavic culture. You must go through passport control when entering.
The Bosnian War (1992-1995) was a terrible, violent conflict centered around territorial control and ethnic nationalism. By the time the conflict ended, most of the structures in Mostar were destroyed. Who would have guessed that I would ever visit this region!
The main attraction currently in Mostar is Stari Most or the Old Bridge, constructed in the 1500s during the Ottoman Empire. It was demolished during the Bosnian war in the 1990s and rebuilt. Now it is a symbol of resilience and unity.
Today Mostar still displays cobblestone streets, stone houses, minarets from the mosques, and cool Turkish bazaar style shops.
Asa , the craftsman
While in town try the Cevapcici, a popular local favorite dish made of chopped beef with a yoghurt like sauce, similar to a souvlaki or gyro.
Our very funny guide / part-time comedian 🤪
SIBENIK
Sibenik is a 1,000 year old, very walkable city on the Dalmatian coast which was founded by the Croats. The old town is a lot smaller than Split and about an hour away. The attractions are the gothic, renaissance St. James Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, entirely built of stone slabs and several dramatic fortresses sitting on very high hilltops. There are plenty of meandering streets to explore as well.
Art class sketching the church
TROGIR
On the coast you can find Trogir, a tiny historic town on its own island reachable by bridge ... and yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main attraction is the Cathedral of St. Lawrence which is an intricately carved Romanesque church. The town itself has narrow cobblestone streets and Venetian architecture everywhere.
Trogir - the prettiest elementary school I've ever seen
I didn't know what to expect in traveling to Croatia. I had heard that the coast was breathtaking, and indeed, it was absolutely stunning in some spots with clear, turquoise water.
After spending a few days in Croatia, I was surprisingly impressed with Croatians and their wholesome lifestyle. Each night, I would see entire families walking, playing and just enjoying themselves together along the beach promenade.
Perhaps surviving past struggles have contributed to their stoicism and resilience.
This should inspire the rest of us.