My journey through Vietnam began in Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta before continuing north to Hoi An, Da Nang and Hue. I finished the trip with a cruise through Halong Bay and time in Hanoi. The route combined Vietnam’s energetic cities, historic sites, peaceful waterways, beautiful coastline and complicated history
Vietnam is a long, narrow country stretching more than 1,000 miles from north to south, with dramatically different landscapes from one region to the next. The mountainous north is home to Hanoi and spectacular Halong Bay, while southern Vietnam includes bustling Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta.
The 20th century was a tumultuous period for Vietnam, particularly the war that dominated the country for decades. Major U.S. military involvement occurred primarily from the mid-1960s until the early 1970s, and the war ended in 1975.
Vietnam today is a very different country from the one many Americans remember from the war era. It is developing rapidly, with expanding infrastructure, modern technology and a population increasingly connected to the rest of the world.
Most people's connection with Vietnam, is the disastrous Vietnam War or the "American War", as the Vietnamese call it. The anti-war protest movement shook America in the '60s and '70s. But I learned life goes on and things can change dramatically in a positive direction, given time.
Still, many American veterans and their families understandably have strong feelings and painful memories associated with the war and cannot imagine returning. Others have returned, perhaps out of curiosity or a desire to see the country as it is today.
Modern Vietnam attracts travelers with its fascinating history, beautiful landscapes, energetic cities and wonderful cuisine. Its relatively affordable cost of living has also attracted expatriates, retirees and digital nomads.
My journey also took me to neighboring
Cambodia, where I visited Siem Reap and the extraordinary temples of
Angkor Wat.
HO CHI MINH CITY (AKA SAIGON)
I discovered a city that blends traditional Vietnamese culture with a modern way of life. Ho Chi Minh City is cosmopolitan, hectic and noisy—but also incredibly interesting and full of energy.
Ho Chi Minh City is Vietnam's largest city and was formerly known as Saigon. During the Vietnam War, Saigon was the capital of South Vietnam. After the war ended in 1975 and the country was reunified, the city was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City in 1976.
Even today, you'll frequently hear people call it Saigon, a name that remains widely used, particularly when referring to the city's central area.
Food scene - Banh Mi Sandwiches
Distinctive coffee scene ... egg coffee, coconut coffee, salt coffee. Coffee drinker heaven.
French colonial architecture, dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries can be seen throughout the city. Vietnam remained a French colony for several decades until the French were defeated in 1954.
WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM IN HO CHI MINH CITY
A visit to Ho Chi Minh City's
War Remnants Museum is a sobering reminder of one of the darkest periods in both Vietnamese and American history—the Vietnam War.
The exhibits largely present the war from the Vietnamese perspective and can be intense and difficult to view. Photographs, documents and military artifacts chronicle the conflict and its devastating consequences, including the effects of Agent Orange and other wartime destruction.
The museum also emphasizes the human cost of war and the importance of peace. For me, it was a gut-wrenching experience, but an important one for understanding Vietnam's history.
EXPLORING THE MEKONG RIVER DELTA
The Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam played a strategic role during the Vietnam War. Its vast network of rivers, canals and dense vegetation made military operations particularly difficult.
Today, the experience couldn't feel more different. A peaceful excursion in a narrow boat takes you through small canals shaded by coconut palms and lush tropical vegetation. Villages, markets and farms have developed along the waterways, where boats remain an important part of everyday life.
The Mekong Delta is also one of Vietnam's most important agricultural regions, particularly for rice and tropical fruits. Traveling through these quiet waterways offered a completely different perspective from the noise and energy of Ho Chi Minh City.
Tran, our knowledgeable and friendly tour guide
HOI AN: LANTERNS, TAILORS AND ANCIENT TOWN
Hoi An is one of Vietnam's most charming towns and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with narrow streets, historic buildings, colorful lanterns and temples. It's also a shopper's paradise.
At night, the Ancient Town becomes magical, with hundreds of colorful lanterns glowing along the streets and reflecting in the river. You can take a small boat ride and experience the scene from the water.
I really enjoyed strolling around Hoi An, exploring its interesting shops and food stalls. I would definitely plan to spend at least an afternoon here, although it's easy to see why many travelers stay longer.
Hoi An is also famous for its tailors, who can create custom-made clothing remarkably quickly. You choose a style, have your measurements taken and return for fittings. I was told the quality of the custom work was excellent and considerably less expensive than you might expect.
Lanterns reflected on water at night
HUE: VIETNAM'S IMPERIAL CITY
Hue, the former imperial capital of Vietnam, is one of the country's most historically important cities. It served as the seat of the Nguyen Dynasty, Vietnam's last imperial dynasty.
The city's centerpiece is the Imperial Citadel, constructed beginning in the early 1800s. Within this enormous fortified complex were the Imperial City and the residences and buildings used by the emperor, his family and the royal court. The Nguyen emperors ruled until 1945, when Vietnam's last emperor abdicated.
During our visit, our guide, Tran, shared a very personal story about his family's experience during Vietnam's turbulent history. His family had been relatively prosperous in South Vietnam, but lost property following the war and endured difficult years rebuilding their lives.
As we walked through the Citadel, Tran pointed out his family name etched on a plaque. Hearing his family's story while standing in such a historic place made the visit much more personal for me.
The structures' decorative details are extraordinarily stunning and worth soaking up for an afternoon. If you love antiquities, you must visit Hue.
HALONG BAY: CRUISING ALONG THE LIMESTONE ISLANDS
Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in northern Vietnam, is an extraordinarily beautiful landscape of towering limestone islands and dramatic rock formations rising from the water.
The name Ha Long means “descending dragon” and comes from a Vietnamese legend in which dragons were sent to help defend the country from invaders.
One of the best ways to experience Halong Bay is by boat. Visitors can choose from sightseeing day cruises as well as overnight cruises that allow more time to explore the bay. Depending on the itinerary, cruises may include stops at caves, beaches, viewpoints and other attractions.
Cruising through the calm water surrounded by enormous limestone formations was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip to Vietnam.
Don't miss the opportunity to experience this incredible place.
HANOI: VIETNAM'S HISTORIC CAPITAL
Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, is a fascinating mix of history, tradition and modern life. Much of the city's history is tied to the period of French colonial rule, when Vietnam was part of French Indochina. The French influence is still visible in some of Hanoi's architecture and cuisine.
Much of the city's history is tied to French colonialism when the country was called "French Indochina". You can definitely see the French influence in its architecture and cuisine.
The Old Quarter is the heart of the city, with narrow streets, small shops, markets, food stalls and a seemingly endless stream of motorbikes. Hanoi feels constantly busy, energetic and atmospheric.
I got the sense that the pace of life is changing, particularly among younger Vietnamese who are increasingly connected to global culture. At the same time, traditional ways of life remain very visible, especially in the markets and street life of the older neighborhoods.
Hoan Kiem Lake provides a peaceful contrast to the busy streets surrounding it. Located in the center of Hanoi, the lake is a popular gathering place where locals walk, exercise and practice tai chi, particularly in the morning.
THE "HANOI HILTON" - HOA LO PRISON
I felt conflicted about visiting Hoa Lo Prison, famously nicknamed the "Hanoi Hilton" by American prisoners of war. It is another reminder of Vietnam's painful past, but I felt it was an important historical site to visit.
The prison was originally built by the French colonial government to hold Vietnamese prisoners, including political prisoners fighting colonial rule.
During the Vietnam War, North Vietnam used part of the prison to hold captured American servicemen, many of them pilots. One of its best-known prisoners was John McCain, who spent more than five years as a prisoner of war in North Vietnam.
Today, the remaining portion of Hoa Lo Prison is a museum covering both its French colonial history and its use during the Vietnam War. Like the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City, it presents difficult history and is not an easy visit—but it adds another perspective to understanding Vietnam's past.
Is Vietnam a Good Destination for Older Solo Travelers?
Vietnam was a fascinating destination for me as an older solo traveler. The cities can feel overwhelming at first, particularly because of the traffic, motorbikes and constant activity. Having an experienced guide helped me understand the history and made traveling between destinations much easier.
The trip included busy city streets, historical sites, boat excursions and considerable travel between regions. The narrow boat ride through the Mekong Delta and the cruise through Halong Bay were highlights, while Hoi An offered a more relaxed place to stroll, shop and enjoy the atmosphere. Older travelers should ask about walking distances, steps and transportation when choosing tours, but I found the variety of experiences well worth the effort.
Today, Vietnam is a country of contrasts - ancient temples, modern cities, bustling streets, constant flow of motorbikes, peaceful countrysides, beautiful landscapes, and reminders of its history at every turn.
The warmth of its people, their remarkable resilience, and their incredible food (!) stayed with me. It is a country with a complicated history looking towards its future.
It is a fascinating place, and one I am very glad I had the opportunity to experience.
Constant reminders of the past
Thank you for reading!
