Morocco: Medinas, Mountains and a Little Bit of Mayhem

 

Morocco is one of those exotic, dreamy places that I had thought about going to for a while. 

In 2023, I finally had the chance to experience this fascinating country, but the timing of the trip coincided with the aftermath of a major earthquake in the Atlas Mountains and the events of October 7. I worried that I would appear uncaring for those affected by the quake and that the protests might escalate.

I chose to travel with a tour group, mostly trusted their guidance, but came to the conclusion on my own not to cancel. I probably would have wanted to kick myself if I had.  The country's economy is very dependent on tourism and felt this would be a lost opportunity. 

When it comes to seeing Morocco, joining an escorted tour is the way to go. It is a great way to see the country without having to worry about navigating the maze-like medinas or arranging transportation between cities — things which I would find particularly challenging as a solo woman traveler.

As it goes, the trip was not without drama. On the connecting flight from Paris to Casablanca, the pilot informed us that some men "were being returned to Morocco". They were young men in their 20s, seated in the rear of the plane, with twist ties on their wrists. Really? On a commercial flight? Happy to report no incidents.

Our journey took us from Rabat to Fez, then south toward Erfoud and the edge of the Sahara, through the dramatic landscapes around Ouarzazate, on to the Atlantic coast at Essaouira, and finally to the bustle of Marrakesh and Casablanca.

Morocco has beautiful architecture, brilliant colors, different smells and sounds, and sweeping desert landscapes. Every stop revealed a completely different side of the country.

That's exactly what made Morocco so memorable.

Traveling Through Vietnam - From Hanoi and Halong Bay to the Mekong Delta

  

Vietnam is a long, narrow country stretching more than 1,000 miles from north to south, with dramatically different landscapes from one region to the next. The mountainous north is home to Hanoi and spectacular Halong Bay, while southern Vietnam includes bustling Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta.

The 20th century was a tumultuous period for Vietnam, particularly the war that dominated the country for decades. Major U.S. military involvement occurred primarily from the mid-1960s until the early 1970s, and the war ended in 1975. 

Vietnam today is a very different country from the one many Americans remember from the war era. It is developing rapidly, with expanding infrastructure, modern technology and a population increasingly connected to the rest of the world.

Most people's connection with Vietnam, is the disastrous Vietnam War or the "American War", as the Vietnamese call it. The anti-war protest movement shook America in the '60s and '70s. But I learned life goes on and things can change dramatically in a positive direction, given time.

Still, many American veterans and their families understandably have strong feelings and painful memories associated with the war and cannot imagine returning. Others have returned, perhaps out of curiosity or a desire to see the country as it is today.

Modern Vietnam attracts travelers with its fascinating history, beautiful landscapes, energetic cities and wonderful cuisine. Its relatively affordable cost of living has also attracted expatriates, retirees and digital nomads.

 

My journey also took me to neighboring Cambodia, where I visited Siem Reap and the extraordinary temples of Angkor Wat.

Discovering Cambodia - Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh and a Difficult History

On 2024, I traveled to Cambodia and Vietnam, a journey that became one of my all-time favorite and most interesting adventures.

I had previously visited Southeast Asia, specifically Thailand, so I thought I was well equipped to handle the very long haul from New York City—and fortunately, I was.

Cambodia was my first stop. I began in Phnom Penh, the country's capital, for a short but very illuminating stay. Cambodia's recent history is extraordinarily difficult, and visiting Phnom Penh gave me a much deeper understanding of what the Cambodian people endured under the Khmer Rouge.

From Phnom Penh, I traveled to Siem Reap to see the magnificent temples of Angkor, including Angkor Wat. Seeing these ancient temples in person was one of the experiences I had most looked forward to on the trip, and they did not disappoint.

After Cambodia, I continued on to Vietnam, traveling through the country from Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta to Hoi An, Hue, Halong Bay and Hanoi.

South Africa - Beyond Safaris and Cape Town

My journey through South Africa took me to a country where vibrant cities, dramatic landscapes, wildlife and history all share the spotlight. I really didn't know what to expect, and South Africa surprised me. One of the things I enjoyed most was the variety. You can spend the morning exploring a city neighborhood and the afternoon watching the sunset over a nature reserve, mountain range or coastline.

Cape Town is often called one of the world's most beautiful cities, and I completely understand why. Stunning beaches, mountains and panoramic views are all within a short distance of the city center. It is a remarkable introduction to South Africa and a destination that offers much more than the traditional safari experience.

 

        Biking enthusiasts in Cape Town                        

South Africa After Apartheid

Apartheid officially ended in the early 1990s, and South Africa held its first fully democratic election in 1994, when Nelson Mandela became president. More than three decades later, the legacy of apartheid remains visible, particularly in patterns of wealth, housing and economic opportunity.

The contrast between rich and poor was striking to me, especially in Johannesburg. At the same time, I heard about efforts to create more economically integrated residential communities. South Africa has made enormous changes since the apartheid era, but significant inequalities remain.