Discovering Buenos Aires: Things To See and Do

 

Today I decided not to join a Gaucho event which featured a huge barbecue. The thought of having more steak, after consuming heavy, but delicious meals the previous days, was uninviting, although missing authentic Argentinian cowboys seemed like a lost opportunity. Instead, I took to the metro to explore San Telmo, a vibrant bohemian neighborhood with outdoor markets.

San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, is noted for its charm, architecture and street life. The neighborhood is well-known for its antique stores and Sunday street fair along Calle Defensa. There can be spontaneous tango performances in Plaza Dorrego if you get lucky enough to catch one.

The subway wasn’t that difficult to figure out but I had to get some pesos because you can’t pay with credit cards. I went to the local “Cambio” on the corner which offers a "blue rate", supposedly better than the official exchange rate. It seemed a little shady but I was exchanging only 10 bucks so I didn’t care. The subway is much cleaner and looks safer than that in New York.

Navigating to the outdoor market, involved walking a fair distance from the subway and had me a little on edge since I wasn't familiar with the area. This aspect of solo travel is less than ideal, but my radar as a New Yorker kicked in should anyone strange approach me.

On Sunday, the bars were extremely packed with excited people watching the soccer matches. I was getting claustrophobic in the bar, so I left after a short while. More my speed, I found local shops to explore with an assortment of beautiful handmade Argentinian goods like leather bags, belts, and jackets. Most of the street stalls had antiques or stuff I was not interested in, so while the neighborhood had a very interesting vibe, I moved on to my next destination.

I headed to the other side of town, to the Recoleta neighborhood, for the National Museum of Fine Arts (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes) which had an impressive collection focusing on modern and post-impressionist art. It is Argentina's most important art museum and a premier cultural institution in Latin America with works by Rembrandt, Goya, Manet, Van Gogh and other masters.

It was free and I just walked in - no metal screening or inspection of bags at all. I guess Argentinians are more trustworthy than the average Joe. There were lots of security personnel though.

Tomorrow.. Santiago

Buenos Aires - Paris of South America

Today was a travel day. We flew from the Iguazu regional airport to Buenos Aires in the afternoon and arrived at the Marriott by 6 PM. 

Meanwhile, my neighbor notified me that the battery alarm on my smoke detector had been beeping for several days and it was driving him mad. Luckily, the building superintendent changed the battery. 

The hotel was situated by the Obelisk, a famous landmark close to the Theatre district. My first impression was that Buenos Aires seemed more like the “New York of South America” than the “Paris of South America”, but I hoped that impression would change after seeing more of the city. 

We rushed off to a famous Argentinian pizza place, Guerrin, for dinner. Everyone ate way too much, but the food and atmosphere were great.

The next morning, we went to the main square, Plaza de Mayo. Pope Francis’s church is located there (before he became the Pope) and also the Pink House where Eva Peron (Evita) made her final speech on the balcony

 

Argentina has had many dictatorships, the last one as recent as the 1980s. 30,000 or more people disappeared under the brutal military regime. 

The Mothers of May, signified by the kerchiefs on the pavement, hold ceremonies on the plaza in remembrance of their lost sons and daughters who disappeared during the Dirty War (1976-1983). These women demanded news about their families and spoke out against the dictatorship's oppression. The weekly marches began in 1977.  

Pope Francis church, Metropolitan Cathedral

Next, we stopped at the very colorful and touristy La Boca neighborhood. It's a popular destination known for El Caminito, a pedestrian street lined with brightly painted houses and tango performances. 

 

Then off to the famous Recoleta cemetery where Evita rests. 

It was 20-year quest to get her remains back to Argentina after she died in 1952. Eva Perón's body was returned to Buenos Aires in November 1974 after it was removed following a military coup ousting her husband, Juan Perón. Her body was eventually returned from Madrid by Isabel, his new wife, who succeeded him as president.

The line to see Evita's grave.

Afterwards, I took a walk to the El Ateneo bookstore, converted in 2000 from what was formerly the Grand Splendid theatre. It is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world with ceiling frescos and crimson curtains. There is a collection of over 120,000 books and even a cozy cafe on the stage where you can snuggle up with a book.

Returning to the hotel meant crossing Avenida 9 de Julio which has about 20 traffic lanes. It takes a while to get across. Crossing busy roads is not my forte. I rewarded myself with a yummy Empanada at a local stand when I reached the other side.😋

Finally, I observed the elegant Paris influence on architecture in the Recoleta neighborhood. I do now concur with the labeling of Buenos Aires as the "Paris of South America". 😌

While Buenos Aires is a beautiful city, it too has its problems with the homeless. It is especially heartbreaking when it is families with very young children living on the street.

Iguazu Falls - The Power of Nature

Today we went to the national park for Iguazu Falls on the Brazil side. Photos can’t capture its magnificence.  Then tomorrow we go to the Argentinean side of the falls which is supposed to be even more breathtaking.

Despite my best efforts for a seamless journey to Iguazu from Rio, I forgot to remove a lithium phone battery charger tucked into my checked bag.  Already at the airport gate, I was sent back to security to retrieve it.

Thankfully, Veni accompanied me and was very patient and helpful. I was worried about missing the flight but he said there was plenty of time. We made it with time to spare and I didn’t cry. 

The next day, we ventured onto the Argentina side of Iguazu Falls. We hiked 3 trails about 1.5 miles each that offer different views of the falls. The trails are not difficult to navigate at all. For most of the trails, there are boardwalks which make it fairly easy to walk on. Due to the sheer number of people, you can get to the finish line if you keep a steady pace. If you have a disability, there are shortcuts, no worries.

We started with the impressive Devil's Throat which looks like water going down your bathtub drain but billions of times larger and more powerful.

I bought a separate ticket to take the boat ride under the falls but it was canceled due to a thunderstorm. I do recommend trying to do this because the boat ride seemed spectacular.

Tonight is our Argentinean Thanksgiving meal with traditional food, no turkey.

A few useful observations about this trip so far:

1) Brazil is very affordable for a tourist. I’ve had wonderful dinners with signature cocktails for about $20. My Uber ride of 30 minutes was $4. The return trip at rush hour was $6. I think the hotel room was $125 beachside. So while Rio isn’t the easiest destination to reach, it is a very low-cost place with good value for your money. 

2) The people are nice and sweet.  I got a hug from a taxi driver for a small tip.

3) As the 7th largest economy in the world, they need to step up and help those in need. There is no safety net. Possibly, this would alleviate some of the petty theft. 

4) The majority of people don’t speak English. It would be helpful to know common Portuguese phrases. Unfortunately, you probably won’t understand the response if you manage to ask a question. 

5) Photo etiquette- move out of the way after you snap your shot and don’t take a long time unless no one else is waiting. Likewise, be aware and don’t walk into other persons shot if you can help it.