Buenos Aires - Paris of South America

Today was a travel day. We flew from the Iguazu regional airport to Buenos Aires in the afternoon and arrived at the Marriott by 6 PM. 

Meanwhile, my neighbor notified me that the battery alarm on my smoke detector had been beeping for several days and it was driving him mad. Luckily, the building superintendent changed the battery. 

The hotel was situated by the Obelisk, a famous landmark close to the Theatre district. My first impression was that Buenos Aires seemed more like the “New York of South America” than the “Paris of South America”, but I hoped that impression would change after seeing more of the city. 

We rushed off to a famous Argentinian pizza place, Guerrin, for dinner. Everyone ate way too much, but the food and atmosphere were great.

The next morning, we went to the main square, Plaza de Mayo. Pope Francis’s church is located there (before he became the Pope) and also the Pink House where Eva Peron (Evita) made her final speech on the balcony

 

Argentina has had many dictatorships, the last one as recent as the 1980s. 30,000 or more people disappeared under the brutal military regime. 

The Mothers of May, signified by the kerchiefs on the pavement, hold ceremonies on the plaza in remembrance of their lost sons and daughters who disappeared during the Dirty War (1976-1983). These women demanded information about their loved ones and protested the dictatorship's abuses. The weekly marches began in 1977.  

Pope Francis church, Metropolitan Cathedral

Next, we stopped at the very colorful and touristy La Boca neighborhood. It's a popular destination known for El Caminito, a pedestrian street lined with brightly painted houses and tango performances. 

 

Then off to the famous Recoleta cemetery where Evita rests. 

It was 20-year quest to get her remains back to Argentina after she died in 1952. Eva Perón's body was returned to Buenos Aires in November 1974 after it was removed following a military coup ousting her husband, Juan Perón. Her body was eventually returned from Madrid by Isabel, his new wife, who succeeded him as president.

The line to see Evita's grave.

Afterwards, I took a walk to the El Ateneo bookstore, converted in 2000 from what was formerly the Grand Splendid theatre. It is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world with ceiling frescos and crimson curtains. There is a collection of over 120,000 books and even a cozy cafe on the stage where you can snuggle up with a book.

Returning to the hotel meant crossing Avenida 9 de Julio which has about 20 traffic lanes. It takes a while to get across. Crossing busy roads is not my forte. I rewarded myself with a yummy Empanada at a local stand when I reached the other side.😋

Finally, I observed the elegant Paris influence on architecture in the Recoleta neighborhood. I do now concur with the labeling of Buenos Aires as the "Paris of South America". 😌

While Buenos Aires is a beautiful city, it too has its problems with the homeless. It is especially heartbreaking when it is families with very young children living on the street.