A Rocky Start to the South Coast
The nemesis of this trip has been the bus company. I dutifully go to the designated bus stop as instructed, but the drivers inevitably go to my hotel looking for me. Clearly, there has been a communication breakdown.
Today, the tour bus left for Iceland’s South Shore without me. I won’t repeat what I said on the phone, but my New Yorker instincts immediately kicked in. Fortunately, the company sent a Sprinter van to pick me up 10 minutes later and make the 45-minute drive to catch up with the group.
While waiting for my arrival, everyone stopped at a bakery for doughnuts. 🙂 I was worried that the group might resent the delay, but thankfully it did not create a major problem.
Tommy, my Sprinter driver, was friendly, reassuring, and armed with a few good jokes. He promised not to abandon me at a gas station—and, most importantly, not to drive 100 miles an hour. In the end, we caught up with the group, and my South Coast adventure could finally begin
A Wet and Windy Journey to Vik
“Wet” is the best word to describe today. One thing to understand about Iceland is that its weather is extremely unpredictable. Situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, the island is exposed to rapidly changing conditions—and visitors may experience rain, wind, sunshine, and cold temperatures all in the same day.
Today was particularly wet and windy. I quickly noticed that travelers in Iceland tend to be a hearty bunch: rough, tough, and prepared to roll with the punches. Bad weather rarely seems to stop anyone from exploring.
Despite the conditions, we made it to the beautiful village of Vík, located beside the ocean on Iceland’s South Coast. The village is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, mountains, and black-sand beaches, making it especially picturesque even beneath gray skies.
If you do not have the time or inclination to drive Iceland’s entire Ring Road, day tours from Reykjavík are an excellent alternative. The Golden Circle follows a popular loop, while South Coast tours travel out and back along many of the region’s most notable attractions.
TIP: Most tours operated by bus companies will probably deliver you, as a captive tourist, to an assortment of gift shops during the rest stops. Consider yourself warned.
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Vik and Reynisfjara Black-Sand Beach
Vík is a small, picturesque village on Iceland’s South Coast, surrounded by mountains, green cliffs, and the dark waters of the North Atlantic. Its most recognizable landmark is the white Víkurkirkja church with its bright red roof, perched on a hill overlooking the village.
Although Vík has only a small population, it is an important stopping point for travelers, with restaurants, shops, hotels, and convenient access to nearby black-sand beaches.
Near the village of Vík lies Reynisfjara, Iceland’s famous black-sand beach. Formed from volcanic rock, the dark shoreline is framed by towering basalt columns, sea caves, and the dramatic Reynisdrangar rock formations rising from the Atlantic Ocean.
TIP: The scenery is powerful and otherworldly, but the water can be extremely dangerous. Sudden “sneaker waves” can rush much farther onto the beach than expected, so visitors must remain well back from the ocean and never turn their backs on the waves.
Reynisfjara Black sand beach
Sólheimajökull is an impressive glacier marked by deep crevasses, jagged ridges, and streaks of black volcanic ash. The glacier has been retreating in recent decades, leaving behind a growing lagoon and providing visible evidence of Iceland’s changing climate. Such an abysmal situation.😭
Mary Beth with her new, beautiful yellow raincoat.
Since 2012, travelers have been leaving bras on this fence along the road near Skogafoss waterfalls.
The “Bra Fence” reportedly began as a joke, although no one seems certain of its true origin. Travelers continued adding bras over the years, transforming an ordinary farm fence into a quirky roadside attraction.
Seljalandsfoss, is one of Iceland’s most beautiful and recognizable waterfalls. Water cascades nearly 200 feet from a former sea cliff, creating a slender curtain of mist. A pathway allows visitors to walk behind the waterfall for a dramatic view through the falling water, although the trail can be extremely wet and slippery.
TIP: Waterproof clothing and sturdy shoes are essential—but getting soaked is part of the experience.
My Take on Iceland's South Coast
Despite the rocky beginning with the bus company—and a day filled with wind and rain—Iceland’s South Coast was absolutely worth the journey.
From the peaceful village of Vík and the powerful waves at Reynisfjara to Sólheimajökull Glacier and the magnificent Seljalandsfoss waterfall, the landscape was dramatic at every turn, and the bra fence just confirmed the quirkiness of Icelanders.
Iceland’s unpredictable weather is simply part of the experience, so dress properly, keep a sense of humor, and enjoy the adventure.
Continue reading about the rest of my Iceland adventure:
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Planning My Solo Trip to Iceland
