What to Do in Buenos Aires

 

Today I decided not to join a Gaucho event which featured a huge barbecue. The thought of having more steak, after consuming heavy, but delicious meals the previous days, was uninviting, although missing authentic Argentinian cowboys seemed like a lost opportunity. Instead, I took to the metro to explore San Telmo, a vibrant bohemian neighborhood with outdoor markets.

San Telmo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, is noted for its charm, architecture and street life. The neighborhood is well-known for its antique stores and Sunday street fair along Calle Defensa. There can be spontaneous tango performances in Plaza Dorrego if you get lucky enough to catch one.

The subway wasn’t that difficult to figure out but I had to get some pesos because you can’t pay with credit cards. I went to the local “Cambio” on the corner which offers a "blue rate", supposedly better than the official exchange rate. It seemed a little shady but I was exchanging only 10 bucks so I didn’t care. The subway is much cleaner and looks safer than that in New York.

Navigating to the outdoor market, involved walking a fair distance from the subway and had me a little on edge since I wasn't familiar with the area. This aspect of solo travel is less than ideal, but my radar as a New Yorker kicked in should anyone strange approach me.

On Sunday, the bars were extremely packed with excited people watching the soccer matches. I was getting claustrophobic in the bar, so I left after a short while. More my speed, I found local shops to explore with an assortment of beautiful handmade Argentinian goods like leather bags, belts, and jackets. Most of the street stalls had antiques or stuff I was not interested in, so while the neighborhood had a very interesting vibe, I moved on to my next destination.

I headed to the other side of town, to the Recoleta neighborhood, for the National Museum of Fine Arts (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes) which had an impressive collection focusing on modern and post-impressionist art. It is Argentina's most important art museum and a premier cultural institution in Latin America with works by Rembrandt, Goya, Manet, Van Gogh and other masters.

It was free and I just walked in - no metal screening or inspection of bags at all. I guess Argentinians are more trustworthy than the average Joe. There were lots of security personnel though.

Tomorrow.. Santiago