Buenos Aires - Paris of South America

Today was a travel day. We flew from the Iguazu regional airport to Buenos Aires in the afternoon and arrived at the Marriott by 6 PM. 

Meanwhile, my neighbor notified me that the battery alarm on my smoke detector had been beeping for several days and it was driving him mad. Luckily, the building superintendent changed the battery. 

The hotel was situated by the Obelisk, a famous landmark close to the Theatre district. My first impression was that Buenos Aires seemed more like the “New York of South America” than the “Paris of South America”, but I hoped that impression would change after seeing more of the city. 

We rushed off to a famous Argentinian pizza place, Guerrin, for dinner. Everyone ate way too much, but the food and atmosphere were great.

The next morning, we went to the main square, Plaza de Mayo. Pope Francis’s church is located there (before he became the Pope) and also the Pink House where Eva Peron (Evita) made her final speech on the balcony

 

Argentina has had many dictatorships, the last one as recent as the 1980s. 30,000 or more people disappeared under the brutal military regime. 

The Mothers of May, signified by the kerchiefs on the pavement, hold ceremonies on the plaza in remembrance of their lost sons and daughters who disappeared during the Dirty War (1976-1983). These women demanded information about their loved ones and protested the dictatorship's abuses. The weekly marches began in 1977.  

Pope Francis church, Metropolitan Cathedral

Next, we stopped at the very colorful and touristy La Boca neighborhood. It's a popular destination known for El Caminito, a pedestrian street lined with brightly painted houses and tango performances. 

 

Then off to the famous Recoleta cemetery where Evita rests. 

It was 20-year quest to get her remains back to Argentina after she died in 1952. Eva Perón's body was returned to Buenos Aires in November 1974 after it was removed following a military coup ousting her husband, Juan Perón. Her body was eventually returned from Madrid by Isabel, his new wife, who succeeded him as president.

The line to see Evita's grave.

Afterwards, I took a walk to the El Ateneo bookstore, converted in 2000 from what was formerly the Grand Splendid theatre. It is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world with ceiling frescos and crimson curtains. There is a collection of over 120,000 books and even a cozy cafe on the stage where you can snuggle up with a book.

Returning to the hotel meant crossing Avenida 9 de Julio which has about 20 traffic lanes. It takes a while to get across. Crossing busy roads is not my forte. I rewarded myself with a yummy Empanada at a local stand when I reached the other side.😋

Finally, I observed the elegant Paris influence on architecture in the Recoleta neighborhood. I do now concur with the labeling of Buenos Aires as the "Paris of South America". 😌

While Buenos Aires is a beautiful city, it too has its problems with the homeless. It is especially heartbreaking when it is families with very young children living on the street.

Iguazu Falls - So Darn Beautiful

Today we went to the national park for Iguazu Falls on the Brazil side. Photos can’t capture its magnificence.  Then tomorrow we go to the Argentinean side of the falls which is supposed to be even more breathtaking.

Despite my best efforts for a seamless journey to Iguazu from Rio, I forgot to remove a lithium phone battery charger tucked into my checked bag.  Already at the airport gate, I was sent back to security to retrieve it.

Thankfully, Veni accompanied me and was very patient and helpful. I was worried about missing the flight but he said there was plenty of time. We made it with time to spare and I didn’t cry. 

The next day, we ventured onto the Argentina side of Iguazu Falls. We hiked 3 trails about 1.5 miles each that offer different views of the falls. The trails are not difficult to navigate at all. For most of the trails, there are boardwalks which make it fairly easy to walk on. Due to the sheer number of people, you can get to the finish line if you keep a steady pace. If you have a disability, there are shortcuts, no worries.

We started with the impressive Devil's Throat which looks like water going down your bathtub drain but billions of times larger and more powerful.

I bought a separate ticket to take the boat ride under the falls but it was canceled due to a thunderstorm. I do recommend trying to do this because the boat ride seemed spectacular.

Tonight is our Argentinean Thanksgiving meal with traditional food, no turkey.

A few useful observations about this trip so far:

1) Brazil is very affordable for a tourist. I’ve had wonderful dinners with signature cocktails for about $20. My Uber ride of 30 minutes was $4. The return trip at rush hour was $6. I think the hotel room was $125 beachside. So while Rio isn’t the easiest destination to reach, it is a very low-cost place with good value for your money. 

2) The people are nice and sweet.  I got a hug from a taxi driver for a small tip.

3) As the 7th largest economy in the world, they need to step up and help those in need. There is no safety net. Possibly, this would alleviate some of the petty theft. 

4) The majority of people don’t speak English. It would be helpful to know common Portuguese phrases. Unfortunately, you probably won’t understand the response if you manage to ask a question. 

5) Photo etiquette- move out of the way after you snap your shot and don’t take a long time unless no one else is waiting. Likewise, be aware and don’t walk into other persons shot if you can help it.

Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf Mountain and More Must See Sites

CHRIST THE REDEEMER

Hello Jesus . Today was a visit to Rio’s number one attraction. 

Christ the Redeemer is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It is 125 ft. In length, perched high on top of a mountain in a national park with breathtaking scenery. Being a New Yorker, the Statue of Liberty also gets my vote as a World Wonder, but admittedly, the harbor in Rio is a spectacular sight to be seen, just adding to the awe factor.

Today I also checked out Ipanema beach. This beach became famous worldwide after Frank Sinatra recorded the song “The Girl from Ipanema” in 1964. (Veni sang the song for us just in case someone wasn’t familiar with it). The song was based on a stunningly beautiful girl who is now in her 80s and now has her own beauty line. While there, couldn't help but buy some Havaianas flip-flops to take home.

Tonight, Veni treated us to Happy Hour at his favorite beach bar. At the next table, we thought someone said they were from New Jersey, started a little chat and discovered that they come to Rio frequently for work. What do they do? They are pilots for Delta Airlines! Yes, Delta Airlines that nearly wrecked my trip. Remarkably, they were the pilots for my flight! Weird, but true.

                             Ms. Liberty in New York harbor 😄

SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN

To reach Sugarloaf Mountain , you need to ride a cable car to the top. This is probably the second most popular attraction in Rio. The views of the landscape are jaw-dropping. 

SERALON STAIRCASE

We went downtown and stopped by a tile-covered staircase, called the Seralon Staircase, which was decorated by a famous Chilean artist. The immediate area is packed with tourists and a little difficult to navigate. Some "entrepreneurs" get paid to take shots of people on the stairs, so if you get in their way, you will hear about it. Just be aware of where you step.

We had a quick lunch at a local restaurant around the corner from the Hotel and afterward a short visit to Jardim Botanico. As it was getting late, we didn't see the full garden. We discovered that there was a trolley to pick up passengers at certain stops along the route, so you don't need to do all that walking unless you want to. Inquire about this when you purchase tickets. It is not that obvious that this service exists. At least it wasn't to us.

JARDIM BOTANICO

Beautiful Brazilian Red Tree

Just had to post these adorable kids on a field trip to the garden.